I decided to forego breakfast and went to the lobby at 8:00 for the start of our Altiplano tour. I had been ambivalent about staying in Copacabana but decided to go for it the night before. Soon after I got to the lobby, Rosse Mary Vargas Vilela, our guide for the next two days, entered. She is a beautiful, dynamic, intelligent, Aymara woman who charmed everyone immediately.

We got on the bus and drove up to El Alto, the world's highest city and Bolivia's poorest and most dangerous city. The place is always a zoo and our lowland drivers quickly got us into a traffic tangle. When we finally emerged from the city, we had a magnificent view of the Cordillera Real from Illimani to Illiampu. The snow-covered peaks we dazzling in the morning sun.

We proceeded northward about 75 km to Tiwanaku (also spelled several other ways, but I prefer the Aymara spelling)), stopping at the highest point at Lloco Lloco for a brief Aymara ceremony led by Rosse Mary. On the way, Rosse Mary taught us how to greet people in Aymara. I tried it out on some textile vendors at the site. They loved it! To say hello is "Kami Saraki!" or just “Kami saki!”

Tiwanaku is the oldest archeological ruin in the Americas . It was the most important religious site in South America . Rosse Mary gave detailed explanations of the pyramid, the monoliths, the main courtyard, and the sun gate. She pointed out the importance of the equinox and the solstices, as well as the geographic location. Tiwanaku, theTemple of the Sun on Lake Titicaca, Illamani, and Illampu, set up the same map pattern as the southern cross. It was apparent that she was extremely proud of her heritage. She participates in traditional ceremonies on the equinoxes and solstices.

After an hour and a half at the site we returned to El Alto to let off Todd and Mike who returned to La Paz . Callie and Chris were not participating on this trip because they had left the group to fly home a couple of days early.

We then started the three hour drive to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca. We had a glimpse of the lake from Lloco Lloco in the morning, but I think most of us were unprepared for the spectacular beauty of the lake when seen from up close.

We crossed a narrow portion of the lake between San Pablo and San Pedro on a ferry and continued to drive above the shoreline as dusk fell. Lightning flashed as we pulled into Copacabana after darkness fell. Because this was the busy season and we didn't have reservations Rosse Mary suggested that we try the Hotel Utama. It was a nice place for $25/double, although most students had to share a double bed.

Rosse Mary led us to the Hotel Rosario where we ate dinner. I was having trouble walking on the dark cobble-stoned streets, so Jessica kindly took my hand. I had the famous lake trout for dinner. It was fabulous.

Jessica took my right hand as we walked through the quiet, dark streets on our way back to the hotel after dinner. It had rained a little during dinner. The 13,000 ft. elevation was having its effect as we puffed our way up the hill. We were joined by Rosse Mary who took my left hand. The three of us talked the whole way back to the Utama where we said good night. I roomed with Charlie. The shower was hard to adjust, but I finally was able to take a hot shower.