Geological Society of America's Student-Oriented GeoTrip

"Patagonia--New Year's at the End of the World"

JR's Journal

Buenos Aires to El Calafate
December 29, 2004

Fotos from Day 3


 

My phone rang at 1:45, it was Angel. His wife had received my email in Puerto Madryn and called him in Río Gallegos to tell him of the problem. I explained the situation and he said he'd get on it. When I hung up I was relieved that the call wasn't my wake – up call and that I could go back to sleep. When it rang at 3:30, it was my wake – up call. I got up, dressed, finished packing, and went to the lobby. Our bus was there so we loaded up and went to Aeroparque. The city is so peaceful at 4:00 AM!

It took awhile to check our bags in. I don't know why the Aerolineas staff at Aeroparque is not very helpful; they're very good at other airports. One line was charging the students for overweight baggage but the other two were not. Each insisted they were right. We finally agreed that no overbaggage would be charged but some students had already paid and gone through. We soon boarded and took off on time. I sat with Amanda Green and Ari.

We arrived in Río Gallegos on time and soon found Angel and Raul. To my surprise Angle's 18 – passenger 4 x 4 vehicle was also there. We loaded our gear into it and into a 15 – passenger white van and headed NW toward El Calafate into a strong headwind. It wasn't too long before the rental van overheated and we had to stop at Las Horquetas, out in the middle of nowhere. We all bought drinks and sat down and pulled out our sandwiches. The owner got all bent out of shape. We offered to leave a $1.00 tip each but he wanted more. We left $30 in all, wondering why he wanted to chase away what was probably a week's worth of business.

Progress was slow into the headwind – about 60 km/hr. A new van appeared at Las Horquetas with a very cool Argentine guide – Eziquiel or Zeek. He took about half of the students. His van soon developed a minor problem so they sped off ahead of us. We made a stop at the Río Santa Cruz overlook and then descended into El Calafate at about 3:00. To my surprise, the campground was right in town (Amsa). We immediately left for the 80 km drive to the Perito Moreno glacier.

We arrived at the restaurant north of the boardwalks and Zeek led us on a hike along the shoreline. Unfortunately, the other van stopped at the boardwalk and missed the hike. The glacier calved many icebergs with a thunderous roar as we walked along. The highlight, though, was when a nearby iceberg rolled over right in front of us.

When I looked at the map at the Boardwalk I was struck by how circular the Brazo Sur is around the peninsula Magallanes. There is an incredible radial drainage within the peninsula. It appears to be a 16 km wide impact feature elongate slightly E – W.

We drove back to el Calafate stopping by Zeek's house. He is putting up the 3 students who lost luggage in their small cabin behind the house for $50/night. Back at the campsite, we set up tents and Angela, our cook, prepared a spaghetti dinner which we devoured. It was about midnight when we ate. Aferwards everyone went to bed and collapsed.

    

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