A
GROUP JOURNAL
WEDNESDAY,
DECEMBER 26, 2001:Miami
to Buenos Aires
Scribe:Danielle
Sharp
It
looked like it was going to be a reality.After
the past several weeks of agonizing over the economic collapse of Argentina
and our safety in such a volatile situation, we were at the Miami airport
and ready to fly to Buenos Aires, Argentina.All
of my reading about Darwin and the history and culture of Argentina, as
well as studying my Spanish was going to pay off, at least the reading.My
Spanish was still a little shaky.
Most
of our group members met each other at our gate while waiting for our departure.Some
of us had met on our previous trip in July of 2000, but there were many
new introductions to be made since our group was quite large this time.Our
leader, Jim Reynolds, handed out our much-needed nametags, but they were
in Spanish.How were we ever going
to remember that a long Spanish name, not even close to resembling the
English version, meant Sally in English? So
many names and faces to remember!
Our
flight was delayed about one-half hour, but we soon made our eight-hour
journey to Buenos Aires.We were
served both dinner and breakfast and slept restlessly in between.
THURSDAY,
DECEMBER 27, 2001:Log
starts at midnight-Miami to Buenos Aires
Scribe:Ross
McCasland
It
was after midnight when we finished supper on our American Airlines jumbo
jet.I had the chicken and others
around me had steak.The bite of
fillet I tried tasted like chicken. Since this was my first time across
the equator, I stayed awake until the flight monitor indicated that we
had crossed.Now after a few hours
of shut eye …and swollen feet, we woke to bright sunshine in the southeast.My
first view out the window to the east began with thick clouds and occasional
breaks allowing a view of the verdant green rainforest below.Soon
we were following the valley of an enormous meandering river – the Rio
Paraná, I think.Lots of lakes.
Breakfast
on the plane was a foretaste of future South American breakfasts, this
one consisting of a wet sandwich with ham.It
was hard to work up an appetite.
Buenos
Aires finally came into view.It
is situated on an enormous estuary.It's
on the southern side in Argentina, and north across the muddy water, we
could see the coast of Uruguay.One
of our tour guides said it is several hours to the nice beaches.Jim
Reynolds told us that an interesting trip is a ferry ride over to Montevideo.The
land is fertile here based on the amount of land under cultivation.It
is called the Pampas.To the south
is Patagonia, our destination, a much drier and windier part of Argentina.Many
of the farms appear prosperous and a subdivision we flew over seems to
have as many swimming pools as parts of Dallas, Texas.But
the day was one of stark contrast, as we began to see the troubles in Argentina
caused by the monetary crisis and pockets of poverty.
Customs
was a breeze.I wondered if Don Triplehorn,
from Fairbanks, had declared his intergalactic cellular telephone.At
least they didn’t take it away from him.Well,
we were tourists and they needed our U.S. dollars.The
humidity greeted us warmly when we walked out to the bus.I
was secretly amused looking at my dad with his two coats and a vest. He
assured me that The Philippines was much hotter.The
trip downtown took 30 minutes on freeway and tollway.The
trip took us by many barrios and government “project” style housing complexes.Jim
told me it is much worse in other places, although I saw none.
Many
Argentine motorists were enjoying the warm afternoon, parking in the middle
of the medians and beside the freeway on the greenbelts.
The
downtown area is a mix of old and new.The
Hotel Bristol where we checked in is on Ave. 9 de Julio, which runs north
to south.I was disoriented because
your shadow falls on your south side.The
extremely wide boulevard has an obelisk like our Washington monument and
is the gathering place for all demonstrations peaceful and violent.In
the unrest only a few days earlier, a number of people had died in protests
against the government.Graffiti
and broken glass reflected anger at the IMF and the government.
We
had time to unload in our nice, but stuffy, rooms before heading off to
a five-course meal at La Estancia Restaurant.This
was a wonderful time of getting acquainted.I
could tell the group was melding well.The
two Ericas joined up with the rest of us here, I think.Everyone
started learning phrases like, vino tinto o blanco, agua con gas o sin
gas, and café solo o con leche.
After
lunch, Dad and I had fun looking for the Correo Argentina, or post office.($1.25
postage to the U.S).I began polishing
rusty Spanish.Lots of fun.Lots
ofpeople.The
population is strongly Italian with many of Spanish descent, and most look
very European.Many had blue or green
eyes.The girls are pretty and dress
to be noticed. The movie theaters were showing Harry Potter. The tropical
humidity began to melt us and, later on, an afternoon shower washed us
off during more shopping.Finally,
we returned to the hotel to clean up for the Tango club – Carlos Gardel.
While
waiting on the group to assemble, we sat around and looked at the geologic
map of Argentina. (I’d like a copy of the Patagonia portion of that map,
if possible).Out the window in
the streets, a large noisy crowd began to assemble around 8 P.M.As
it turned out, the crowd was celebrating a soccer victory and was happy.In
fact, they were still celebrating well past one o’clock the next morning.Only
a few days later, the third of eventually five total leaders of Argentina
resigned amidst protests in front of our hotel again.We
were lucky to miss all that.
Back
to the Tango club.Excellent food.Excellent
music and dance.The music consisted
of a pianist, two accordions, two violinists (the lead was a young provocatively
dressed woman), a cellist and a percussionist.Three
different soloists sang and five dance couples.Tango
is a national treasure and not only reflects the sensual side of life,
but the tragic.The dances each seemed
to tell a story.A wonderful evening
was had by all.
…but
of course there's always another point of view.
SCRIBE:Mark
Nicolich--AA
Flight 0909--Miami to Buenos Aires
We
wake up about 1.5 hours outside of Buenos Aires, in the airplane.What
excitement!Many of the group have
gathered along the passageway to wait for the facilities – it’s been a
long flight.We smile and nod and
think about the upcoming adventure.Maybe
it’s the rhythmic nodding, but almost in unison the group breaks out into
the heart-inspiring song “Oh Patagonia, Land of Adventure” that Mel has
written especially for our trip.It
is very heart warming.After the
first verse and chorus, many of the other passengers pick-up on the lyrics
and join in.Joan A., as only Joan
A. can do, speaks to the flight attendant, who speaks to the flight Capitan,
who agrees to turn on the intercom so the whole plane can hear not only
the group singing our hearts out, but also the flight crew (including the
flight deck participants), and many of the other passengers.There
were very few dry eyes for that time.A
sign of the fellowship that was to follow.
After
we calmed down and the attendants composed themselves, breakfast is served
– an omelet with fresh asparagus, Roquefort cheese, and a dollop of caviar,
an individual brioche, and a latte.It
did make the discomfort of the trip a bit more bearable.I
passed on having the complementary champagne so as not to dull my senses
for the excitement ahead.
An
uneventful landing, passport check and customs.There
was a bit of humming of Mel’s song of welcome among the folks in queue.It
was infectious and I enjoyed seeing the normally stern customs agents pick
up the beat, almost without knowing it (shades of The Full Monty, the film
not our Monte).We gathered our belongings
and ourselves in the terminal and waited for the group to assemble then
ventured outside.My, outside it
is quite warm.The latitude is similar
to Charleston, SC and the season would be the end of June.It
is humid too.Don, with his sharp
eyes and decisive manner, sees the bus that is to transport us on our adventures.Many
of us marvel at his heightened perceptions and his calming demeanor – qualities
that we would later need in out adventures.
We
all pile into a bus.On the bus we
meet up with Angel – our local guide and an old time friend of many.He
has brought along his son, Raúl – a hardy fellow who was to prove
a great boon to our adventures – but more of that to come.We
have a rousing welcome and immediately and spontaneously burst into several
lusty choruses of “It’s So Exciting to See You Again on the Bus, Old Friend!”Despite
the high humidity there were many a damp eye as the echo of the voices
died away.
The
bus takes a quick 45-minute jaunt to the center of town.Ross
has cleverly thought to bring a supply of cooling refreshments for us.So,
on the journey our thirst is slaked with delightful blend of cantaloupe,
papaya, and a melange of citrus fruits – all besprinkled with a dusting
of cardamom and nutmeg.Quite refreshing.We
arrive at the famed Hotel Bristol, 100 m from the Obelisk on the Avenue
of July 9th.The street is one of
the widest in the world - wider than Champes Elysees."It
takes two traffic light cycles to cross the street.”It
is really a wide street with several [check how many] grassy dividers.The
Hotel is 4 (count them) stars!The
towels aren't monogrammed; they have the name and logo of the hotel cut
into the plush of the towel (Is there a name for this process or technique?
- I'm sure there is.).As we arrive
the hotel staff is at the bus to meet us and offer a relatively quick rendition
of the four choruses of “Famed Bristol Hotel Song of Welcome.”We
get our room assignments and have about 1 hour before lunch assembly at
noon.We planned to unpack and rest.
Well,
we got to the room and were nearly bowled over!The
size of the room!Like a bowling
alley (no just 1 lane, but the whole thing).Incredible!We’re
not sure where to unpack our things.I
decided to draw a map, like a treasure map, to know where my things and
Ruth’s things were. To be sure it was done correctly, I borrowed the Triplehorn’s
GPS and made an accurate map, to the nearest 1.0 meter, of what was packed
where [The map is available on request.].It
was a good thing too, because later when I went to look for my clean shirt
and tie, I needed the map to determine their location.Unfortunately,
by the time we unpacked and drew the map, it was time for lunch.We
traipsed downstairs and met the crowd.
At
12:00 we meet in the lobby and walk a few blocks toward a restaurant that
Angel has chosen.A block from the
famed Bristol Hotel we come across what appears to be a geological dig
directly on the Avenue of July 9th.The
hole is large and deep.Gary and
Bob Y. directly launch into a heated discussion and lecture pointing out
some of the features of the dig.Bob
points out how the left lateral fault has resulted in a protectoral fault
formation whose mineralization zone has been exacerbated by the compression
delineation.But wait, Gary points
out how the subduction zone seen under the carboniferous zone has been
poorly delineated in the direction of shear bolstering his contention that
Wilson’s Conjecture on Chelated Minerals would totally account for
the slight (1.2 deci-Gauss) change in the magnetic field strength.Bob
retorts that Wilson noted in his 1998 lecture at Ohio State that his conjecture
only applied to tectonic plates whose preferred orientation was not in
contradistinction to the fault delineations of the contrariety
plate.Just as Gary was about to
retort, Beverly pointed out that the putative geological dig
was in fact an Argentine size pot hole.Oh
well, on to the restaurant.
We
get to the restaurant; a large local place with may tables and several
locals.Bob Osinski is called away
by some officials.It seems the Minister
of Finance is having some problems, and has been checking immigration files
and has discovered Bob has entered the country.Bob
is whisked away in a small flurry and spends the remainder of the day in
an advisory capacity helping to straighten out some of Argentina’s difficulties
(financial, transportation, romantic, and gaudien).As
is clear from subsequent events, his advice on all these matters had fallen
on deaf ears.The mood at the restaurant
is somber for a few minutes, but our spirits are indomitable, and we carry
on with the festivities.
The
waiters bring us an opening empanada with some heated cheese.The
empanada is stuffed with a mixture of Moroccan crab, Latvian abalone, and
Italian truffle, which has some nice flavors, but the pastry is a little
less flaky than we would like.Next
a delightful cheese course and some sorbet to cleanse the palate.Next
a local favorite, rolled beef, with an apricot puree drizzled over it and
a lovely salad of wilted baby greens and arugula.The
wine was served with each course, both red and white.The
reds were mainly from Chateau Romorol, with the years in line with the
course – the lighter 72’s with the cheese and the more hardy ’78 with the
meat.The whites were a little pretentious,
mostly Chateau Pissedechat from the Loire valley.The
final course was your choice of either a piece of chicken or a full size
steak.Too much food!
Based
on a command decision from the Committee of Four (Jack & Jessie &
Barney & Lee & Carol, who have been voted as the Oversight Committee
that makes all the important group decisions – this was based on a complex
mathematical algorithm developed by John to allow the greatest summand
of intelligence in the fewest number of people) there is agreement that
at each meal each of us would leave 1$ as a tip.As
a corollary they have decided that wine would be settled on a meal-by-meal
basis.However, we still have to
deal with desert, either a fruit compote or a glace de chocolate.Quite
droll.
As
we are working our way among the tables to exit the restaurant, but before
we can leave, a large black car has driven up and 3 large toughs in tight
fitting black suits walk directly up to Monte and inform him he is needed
at the Ministry of Information.He
first asks why he was chosen from among all of us.The
chilling look from the thugs leaves no doubt in anyone’s mind what they
are thinking.Another question from
Monte concerning his non-involvement policy results in a minor scuffle.As
he is being brought to the car, Monte enigmatically calls out to us “It’s
all propaganda, anyway you slice it.”We
worry for some moments about Monte’s safety until Mary Emma points out
the Bob O (remember him) will not be too far away.We
have one more round of wine for its calming effects and find ourselves
with a free afternoon in Buenos Aires.
Danielle
and George decide to organize a union for the street beggars based on the
Fagan Model.They begin just outside
the restaurant and within 30 minutes have set-up a full organization with
a president, vice-president, CEO, etc.Danielle
is the CFO and calculates that, based on a mere 5% rake on the take (ROT),
she and George will be able to easily finance the Patagonian trip – including
the wine surcharges.With great flourish
they spend the afternoon recruiting new members to their organization –
The Union of Concerned Buenos Airean Mendicants,
(which in Spanish forms the acronym - BANDITS).
We
decide to do some work on Ruth’s book, so while the others are spending
their time in various pursuits Ruth and Mark rent a moped.A
nice, yellow, moped with saddlebags and a horn.Ruth’s
book, to be published by a major publisher in the spring, is a photographic
compendium of monuments – the tile is “Statues Whose Names Begin with T
in the Capitol Cities of South America.”The
title is simple and descriptive.With
a great deal of persistence, she gets photographs of all 114 statues/monuments
that fit the description.After the
last one on our list (Theresa and Abelard), we sit under a tree in a park
and decide to work our way back to the hotel.It
is hot - about 32 C (90 F) and humid.We
stop for am agua grande, then back to the hotel for a nap.We
have no trouble finding the hotel, but do have some problems navigating
around the room because we misplaced the map.We
finally find the bed and get a few hours shut-eye.
We
get up and shower and meet in the lobby at 8 P.M. for a trip to a Tango
Club for dinner.The streets are
awash with people in some sort of peaceful demonstration.The
head manager informs us that we should not be alarmed, it is merely “the
young people, celebrating the victory of one of the soccer clubs in the
all-Argentine soccer tournament” – he opines that it is like the baseball
world series or the US football Superbowl championship.Lots
of flag waving and fireworks and singing and shouting.It
is an orderly mob.They have gathered
at the Obelisk, which is the center of town (like Times Square).All
good fun.However, there was some
apprehension among the people in the lobby because of the rioting that
had happened the previous week and the rhythmic chanting.Monte,
who has returned from The Ministry, unharmed but wiser, has a different
interpretation.He confers with Grace,
Mary, and Dale who have been surreptitiously blending with the crowd to
discover their true mood – and their worst suspicions are confirmed.In
addition to the Authorities knowing about Bob and Monte, the local power
brokers have realized that Jim has again come into the country – now just
in their time of need.The brokers
have stirred up the local populace into a near frenzy to replace the current
El Presidente with the Norte Americano, el Señor Doctor Jim!We
listened more carefully and realized the chanting was “Queremos el Señor
Doctor Jim - Queremos el Señor Doctor Jim - Queremos el Señor
Doctor Jim.”Well, we knew we’d
never get to the Tango Club with the crowed out there – as Robin would
say “Holy Tippi Hedren, Batman!”Again,
the quick thinking of out Oversight Committee and multifaceted talents
of the group were put to good use.Using
the tailoring talents of Joan B and the makeup artistry of the two Ericas
they had Jim (aka el Señor Doctor Jim) in a disguise so clever that
not even his own dog would sniff him out.Within
a mere 15 minutes Jim was the prototypical Bedouin princess.He
looked so natural and graceful that he would never garner a second glance
from the crowd.So with great joy
in our hearts we broke into 2 quick choruses of “If You Could See Him Now”
and sallied forth to the waiting bus which whisked us through the chanting
throngs (unaware that their sought-after hero was among them even as they
called for his appearance).A short
ride to the Club.
The
club is a recreation (new) of an old club (Ciendo Cuarto?) that had existed
and was home to a famous Tango singer Carlos Gardel.The
menu was varied and fixed price.The
food is good and the wine ok (not nearly as good as lunch).Very
attentive staff that made sure there was enough bottled water and wine
available.During the meal they showed
a video of the history of Tango and a plug for the club.The
video was very well done with historical photos, film clips, and audio.Angel
gave each of us a piece of pottery from his home province as a gift - very
thoughtful.Some people received
water jugs, some plates, some masks.
Then
the show began.A live band (piano,
2 violins, 2 bandonians, and a bass).They
played well and loudly - amplified.Then
the dancers - 4 pair - and the singers.There
were 2 male and 1 female singers who only did solo parts.One
of the males sort of impersonated Carlos Gardel in dress and singing style.He
was very good.The female singer
must have been the owner or the owner’s wife or relative - or maybe the
band was angry at her and would not play in time with her singing.The
dancing was spirited with many difficult maneuvers.But
it was not very graceful - only technically demanding.Partway
through one of the ensemble pieces Sally leapt on the stage and began to
point out to one of the dance pairs how their passango de returnomedia
gambas was not in the traditional style.She
called her partner Greg to the stage and they gave a 4-minute demonstration
of the proper technique.The dancers
were politely attentive, the women in the red bouclé outfit pulled
out a notebook (goodness knows where she was able to secret it while wearing
that dress) and made a few notes as Sally and Greg demonstrated the proper
tango technique.In the meantime,
Peter was photographing the events, both the demonstration and the regular
show.Emboldened by Sally and Greg,
Peter climbed to the bandstand and took a series of photos from there.Some
of the best shots he got were while standing behind the lead (as in principal,
not the element) violin player.We
all were amazed at his unsuspected grace in the way he landed on the dance
floor after the violin player, who seemed to have tired of his clicking,
flung him over her meaty shoulder and over the railing – her movements
were quick and accurate, and she missed only 3 notes.
When
they all got back at the table there was some berating between Sally and
Greg concerning the use of tactile tango instruction as opposed to tactful
tango instruction.Of course, Bob
O. rose to the occasion and stepped in, as the great conciliator, and brought
things back to normal.On With the
Show!
There
was one male dancer who was a bit older (60 to 70) with a young partner
- they seem to have danced a lot together.Compared
to the other dancers (excepting Sally & Greg) he was more reserved/less
flashy and enjoyable to watch.
The
show was over about midnight and as we were about to pile back into the
busses we realized that Jim, who had shed his disguise, would surely be
recognized by the demonstrating crowds that were now all over Buenos Aires.Again,
Joan and the Ericas came to the fore and in short order, using Cristy’s
grosgrain peasant dress ensemble, whipped up an Andalusian sheep farmer
costume for Jim.We all awed with
amazement in the transformation, and in one of the very few choral conflicts
that we were to see on the remainder of the trip, about half of us broke
into a hearty chorus of “Lady of Spain” while the remainder had spontaneously
chosen the “We Like Sheep” aria from The Messiah (Schirmer Music, 1938
edition).Either way, when we finished
the songs we entered the buses for an uneventful journey back to the hotel
with our own sheep herder (ha-ha).The
bus driver gets a little confused by the crowds and the dark and makes
a wrong turn.We wander about for
a few blocks until Chris notices the problem and using his unerring directional
sense gets us back on “the right track.”We
are all grateful, but are too tired to burst into song.
The
celebration that was going on around the Obelisk had grown quite large
and boisterous.It looked like everyone
was having a good time - some drunk kids lying in the street, but mainly
a lot of shouting, flag waving, chanting for their presidential choice,
and fire works.All very well handled.Back
in the lobby of the Bristol we all kissed and hugged and, in what was to
become our nightly ritual at the hotels, all joined in for two lusty choruses
of the “Goodnight Irene” duet from Donizetti’s Maria Stuarda.There
was some question as to why there were so many sheep around.
We
returned to our room, and thanks to Ruth’s idea of placing breadcrumbs,
in the Hansel & Gretel manner, we had no trouble finding our bed in
the vast stretches of the hotel room.She
donned her 'kerchief, and I my cap, and we settled back for a well deserved
sleep.We slowly drifted off to
the crowd’s chants of “Queremos el Señor Doctor Jim - Queremos el
Señor Doctor Jim - …”
FRIDAY,
DECEMBER 28, 2001:Buenos
Aires to Rio Gallegos
Scribe:Danielle
Sharp
It
was an effort to get up and ready for breakfast at 6:00 A.M.We're
not quite used to the strong Argentine coffee, but if memory serves me
well, it won't take long.In fact,
I'm sure we will be begging for it before too much longer.We
certainly need its jump-start in the mornings with our long days and late
nights.
We
were taken to the airport for the four-hour flight to Rio Gallegos, the
capital of Santa Cruz province founded in 1885.It
has a large military base, and after 1945, the city grew rapidly due to
the transport from its port of coal and trade in wool and meat.
As
we were landing, we noticed that all of the roofs were metal and in a variety
of colors.Some of the houses looked
like props for a Monopoly game.George
informed us he had read that Rio Gallegos was the windiest city in the
world.So far it wasn't that bad,
and the temperature was much more pleasant than it had been in Buenos Aires.
Our
bus swept us away to the Hotel de Santa Cruz.We
were surprised to find such small accommodations with no room to spread
out our things, especially since we would be spending two nights here.In
fact, the bathroom door hit the sink, so wouldn't open fully.We
didn't particularly like hearing that Greg and Sally more than likely were
given the Presidential Suite.Sally
said, "Oh, we've got plenty of room!"We
may just have to toilet paper their room at some point.
After
lunch of thinly breaded veal and potato salad, our intended destination
was an estancia and then to the coast to view an old ship wreck.However,
we got somewhat lost and never found the road to the ocean.We
did see a small lake with numerous flamingos whose spread wings showed
bright pink plumage.We also saw
rheas, foxes, and hares, not to mention hundreds of sheep.About
the rheas, Ross asked,"How do we know if they're heas or sheas?"
We
passed by an estancia that was in the process of sheering sheep. There
were numerous dismayed-looking sheep in the pens on other side of the road
who had just lost their wool, and it looked like there were more than two
bags full.In fact, there were about
100 clear plastic bags of freshly sheered wool stacked against the outbuilding.
On
the return trip we were complaining about the curtains getting in the way
of our views.Well, George came up
with a great solution by using his paper luggage tag from his backpack
and securing the curtains on our window with it.Joan
B. was so impressed she started a campaign for all of us to gather similar
items and secure all of the curtains.
Once
we got the curtain situation taken care of, we were able to enjoy more
animal sightings.Some of us drifted
off for short naps, and soon realized why we were so tired.It
was 9:00 P.M. and still light outside.The
sun finally set a little after 10: P.M. and what a gorgeous sunset!
Just
as we were nearing Rio Gallegos, we noticed huge clouds of black smoke
billowing into the sky.Protestors
had set tires on fire.Were we going
to get into the midst of it after all?
It
was about 10:30 P.M. by the time we reached our hotel.We
made a quick trip to our rooms, then walked to The British Club for dinner.However,
we found out that our reservations were for the following night.Jim
made a quick decision to have pizza at the nearby restaurant called Super
Quick. At first I thought it was a grocery store because of the name, but
once inside we noticed other customers enjoying food.Our
pizza and drinks were good and just right after a long day on the bus.Everyone
was thankful that we didn't have to meet for breakfast until 8:00 A.M.
the next day.It was almost 1:00
A.M. by the time we got to bed.
SATURDAY,
DECEMBER 29, 2001:Excursion
to Cabo Virgenes
Morning
Scribe:Cristy
Brenner
After
breakfast at Hotel Santa Cruz, we left Rio Gallegos and headed south on
Highway One towards the penguin rookery at Cabo Virgenes.As
we drove across the rolling hills of the Patagonian steppe, we saw numerous
guanacos and rheas.For those who
didn’t see my book on Patagonia, here are a few interesting facts about
rheas:The male makes the nest and
several different females may lay from two to four eggs.Some
nests my have as many as forty eggs that the male incubates for forty days!The
diet of rheas consists of grasses, seeds, fruit and insects.
I
don’t have any “funnies” to report from our drive because I didn’t know
that I was going to be scribe.We
hadn’t signed up for our scribe duties yet, and I volunteered after the
penguin tour. Since traveling to Antarctica last year, I am an admitted
penguin addict and I had taken lots of notes, while most people were happily
enjoying the wonderful experience of thousands of cute penguins and the
beautiful weather.Here is a brief
summary of my notes on the penguins:
·There
are 500 thousand Magellanic penguins in this rookery.
·There
are 16 species of penguins (one of my books states 18).
·These
penguins are at the rookery from September until March.
·Males
arrive first and spend two weeks renovating their nests from the previous
year.
·The
Cabo Virgenes penguins come from southern Brazil, and this is the only
place where they come onto the land.
·They
spend 80 percent of their time at sea.
·They
mate for life and return to the same nest each year.
·Two
eggs are laid that are incubated by both parents for 42 days.
·They
grow until the end of February, when it takes three weeks for them to molt
from their down feathers to waterproof feathers.
·Once
the young go in the water, they are independent and migrate by themselves
to Brazil.
·After
the young leave, the adults feed on squid and sardines and then return
to land for their three-week molt.
·The
adults then leave and swim to Brazil to feed in the Brazil Current.
·Penguin
predators include seagulls (eat eggs), and skuas and foxes (eat chicks).
·At
sea, sharks, orca and sea lions eat the babies on their way to Brazil.
·The
average Magellanic penguin life span is 14-16 years.
·They
find a mate and nesting site at age four, lay one egg (usually infertile)
at age five, and lay two fertile eggs at age 6.
·These
penguins swim at 20 km/hr, dive down to 150 meters and can stay down for
four minutes.
·Five
thousand tourists visit the Cabo Virgenes Preserve each year.
Our
penguin rookery hike was wonderful.The
penguins were a bit more skittish than the ones in Antarctica, probably
because people used to hunt them.My
only regret was that the trail was a loop and I had planned to take most
of my penguin photos on the way back to the bus.When
we arrived back at the bus, lunch was ready, and it was time to head off
to a new adventure and a new scribe.
Afternoon
Scribe:Carol
Shropshire
Following
the visit to the penguin rookery, we had a lunch on the bus consisting
of a large piece of chicken and one and one-half cups of cooked, unsalted
potatoes and carrots which were dished up by Angel and Raúl.Waitress,
Erica Palson, did the serving.
Customer,
Monte, however was displeased that the women were being served first and
an exchange of bantering ensued.Monty
was heard to say after he got his meal, "This is the worst guanaco I have
ever tasted!"
It
was "potty time," and several women requested that the men relieve themselves
outside the rear of the ranger station.That
reduced the amount of time standing in line since the women could then
use both bathrooms.Bev entertained
the waiting lines by relating one of her wonderful stories.This
time it was about restrooms of various countries she and Gary had visited.
At
4:14 P.M., we illegally entered Chile (no border guards).At
this stop we were at the southern most tip of Argentina's mainland.
The
group immediately spread out on the beach.The
Erica's laid down on the sand for sunbathing (No one in North Dakota even
takes off their gloves in December much less sunbathes!).Someone
else was prone on the sand taking photos.Others
ran down to the water to put their hands in the waters of the Straits of
Magellan.
Back
on the bus, it was decided that Monte and Raúl should walk back
behind the bus since they had spent their time throwing fish skeletons
at each other.Then a discussion
began as to whether we had really been in Chile.The
outcome was "think South American Style," and 50 feet really didn't matter.Just
say it was Chile!
Watching
out the bus windows, we have seen sheep, cows, condors, and guanacos.Danielle
spotted a rhea with six or eight babies, and she was pretty sure she also
saw a Patagonian hare.
There
was a photo stop where 12-15 guanacos were grazing near the road. The
bus driver, Enrique, would stop whenever requested.Everyone
was re-energized after being off of the bus.
We
made another ten minute roadside-stop while Angel went inside a small building.He
emerged with two thermoses of hot water.He
then proceeded to serve matte to everyone.The
first time it was sweet, but the second time it was not, so it was extremely
bitter.Discussions on the bus included
topics of music and eating areas while drinking red wine.What
is in matte anyway?
Since
we were to return by mid afternoon, and it was 8:15 P.M., a few wondered
when mid afternoon arrived in South America.Only
waiting will reveal this answer.We
still had another stop to go.
Our
last stop was a visit to a shipwreck that occurred in 1912.A
boiler on a coal tender exploded and then a severe storm beached the vessel
a quarter of a mile inland.It was
low-tide when we were there and the beach consisted of gravel.A
sea lion was swimming near by.The
shipwreck is now "lover's lane" for the locals of Rio Gallegos.Its
hull is decorated heavily with graffiti.
The
wind was blowing strongly and a group of geologists were huddled together.George
said it looked like the survivor's group deciding who would be voted off
this trip first.However, our group
was beginning to "come together."A
core group of people knew each other.Nametags
were starting to disappear and the rest of us were working hard at remembering
names.
Mid
afternoon arrived;9:15 P.M.!We
went to the British Club for a lamb curry dinner.Some
participants were disappointed when they got a lot of bones and fat.However,
the conversations were pleasing.Bev
and Gary said the television reported more rioting in the area where we
had stayed in Buenos Aires.
A
few decided to stop at a cyber cafe to let folks at home know we were fine,
despite what Argentine political and economical news was being reported.The
dark upstairs area at the cafe was lined with computers.Each
station had a group of teenagers playing games.Since
the keyboard was a little different from American keyboards, we felt we
too were playing games, but eventually, we figured it out.The
cost was very inexpensive.We paid
less than $1 for sending our e-mail messages.
SUNDAY,
DECEMBER 30, 200:Rio
Gallegos to El Calafate
Morning
Scribe:Danielle
Sharp
I
got no sleep last night due to the taxi stand directly across the street.They
told a lot of jokes, but my Spanish wasn't good enough to understand, and
I was very tired.That wonderful
Argentine coffee is a godsend!We
had a pretty substantial breakfast, which made up for last night's dinner.Yuk!
During
breakfast we sat with both Joans, Mel, and Dale and Grace, and it was decided
that we needed to break up some of the seating groups.We
had observed that several people tend to sit in the same spots everyday,
and we don't have a chance to talk to them.So,
after bringing our suitcases to the bus for our three-hour journey to El
Calafate, George and I moved to the third row from the front of the bus,
and the others from our table spread themselves around, as well.We
sat across from the two Ericas and enjoyed talking to them very much.I
am, after all, their "mother."
We
arrived in El Calafate at about 2:00.Everyone
seemed pleased with our living quarters, Apartment Hotel Libertador, for
they were extremely charming.They
reminded me of the alps with the colorful window boxes filled with large,
beautiful petunias, lobelia, etc.…and
the roses in town were absolutely gorgeous.Our
apartment was a large, comfortable two-story apartment with three beds--perfect
for laying out our clothes.Several
of us leaned ours heads out of the windows, and someone asked to borrow
a cup of sugar.
George
quickly found a store that was open, and Mary came running up to me, holding
George's camera, and said that George needed me to translate.He
finally purchased a nice-looking burgundy coat, thus ending the "coat"
saga.The good thing about George
loosing his coat and buying a new one was that I should easily be able
to purchase for myself a cute shirt that I had admired in the window next
door.Unfortunately, that store wasn't
open.Oh, well!It
was finally time to get on the bus and drive to the Perito Moreno Glacier.I
had never seen a glacier in person before, so I could hardly contain myself.
Afternoon
Scribe:Chris
Metzler
We
ate lunch (warm milanesa sandwiches, yum!) on the bus, while chatting with
our guide, Soledad Lopez Belson.We
then drove 80 kilometers to Perito Moreno Glacier, along Lago Argentino.Along
the drive, Soledad provided a running commentary.Among
the many items we learned were the following:
-
Perito Moreno was a surveyor who first established the border between Chile
and Argentina.Perito is a
title, meaning "expert" or "skilled"in
Spanish.His
actual name was Francisco Moreno.
-
Perito Moreno noticed that the blue lake and white snow, glaciers and
icebergs
resembled the colors of the Argentine flag, and thus gave the lake its
name.
-
The lake has an area of 1560 sq. km, an average depth of 300 meters and
greatest depth of 1000 meters.It
drains into the Atlantic Ocean via the Santa Cruz River.
-
The town of El Calafate is named after a shrub, which produces berries.
Local
legend says that those who eat the calafate berry will return to
Patagonia.
-
The town was founded in 1927 and has a population of 7000.Tourism
is the major industry.
-
Estancias
in the area raise sheep.The area
has unusually good conditions for sheep, and they can be supported by only
2 hectares/head.In most of the province
it takes 7 hectare/head to support sheep.
-
The area gets 7-10 meters of snow per year.Soledad
mentioned that we would likely see a number of plants, and passed around
a photo album.Among the common plants
of the area is one called Mata Guanaco, which means "Dead Guanaco"
or "Kills Guanaco".She mentioned
a number of other plants, including one called Zapata de la Virgen.Unfortunately,
this scribe was so traumatized by having been locked in the bathroom at
the hotel that he was unable to record the other plants she mentioned.
-Animals
in the area include puma, red fox and guanacos.
-Common
birds include the Condor, Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, Crested
Caracara,
Black Neck Swan, Chilean Flamingo, Cuaquen Comun (Upland Goose,
which normally occurs in pairs), Buff-necked Ibis, and Garza Bruja
(which literally translates as "witch heron" but in the U.S. is usually
called the Black-crowned Night Heron).Soledad
mentioned a number of other birds, but the scribe was still traumatized
from having gotten locked in the bathroom.
-Perito
Moreno Glacier is the only glacier within Los Glaciares National
Park
which is accessible by land.
At
an overlook, we got off the bus.Soledad
explained that in both 1940 and 1988 the glacier surged across the lake,
creating an ice dam, which caused the upstream side of the lake to rise
25-30 meters.The bathtub ring of
dead vegetation left by the rise was quite apparent.At
present the glacier touches the peninsula, but water flows through and
under the ice dam, so the lake level isn't significantly affected.Jim
mentioned that at one time the glacier was surging forward at 10m/day!
When the ice dam broke apart, it created a jokulhlaup.
After
a short drive, many of us got on a boat, the Yagan (which is a word from
the native people of that region).This
boat ride allowed us to get up-close and personal with the glacier.(Erika
Palson mentioned that she was, up until then, a "glacial virgin", having
never before been intimate with one before.)We
saw a very nice iceberg calving event that created waves which rocked the
boat.The ice front is 50-70 meters
above the lake, and is 6 km wide.
After
the boat ride, we drove to the Moreno Glacier overlook.This
allowed us to hike along several trails to a series of viewing platforms.The
views were fantastic, and lots of photography was going on.Though
we were a little pressed for time, many of us enjoyed the chance to hike
up and down, enjoying both the views and the exercise.
We
were back on the bus at 7:45 for the drowsy ride back to El Calafate and
dinner at the Chinese place.All
in all, it was a fun-filled, educational and beautiful afternoon.
MONDAY,
DECEMBER 31, 2001: Boat
ride on Lago Argentina and visit to Estancia Cristina
Morning
Scribe:
MARY E. Dowse
Today
started with another too-early wakeup call (6 AM) and too-light breakfast
(coffee, croissants).We loaded
onto the bus for a 7:00 A.M. departure to drive to the dock.There
were geologic features to be observed on the road to the dock (if your
eyes were open).The road traversed
a flat glacial lakebed and then crossed a hummocky moraine.There
was evidence of landslides in the hillsides on the left side of the bus.
We
arrived at the dock and boarded the Upsala Explorer for our trip up the
Lago Argentino to see Upsala Glacier.The
speedy catamaran had plush soft seats and was well loaded.Breakfast
was served as we cruised up the Lago.Danielle
used the opportunity to collect the excess coffee creamer with plans to
later open Danielle’s Faux Dairy.We
remained in the cabin for much of the start of the cruise, but boiled out
onto deck when given permission.There
was a wide variety of whimsically-shaped ice bergs floating down the lake
from the glacier.We were alerted
to be on the lookout for “the Lilliputian ice follies coming to an iceberg
near you,” although it is not clear if anyone actually observed the follies.We
did note glacially scoured bed rock and roches moutonées.
The
Upsala Explorer worked its way through and around ice bergs to provide
the opportunity to view the front of the Upsala Glacier. It was much warmer
as we approached the glacier front.Geologically
it was possible to see some of the history of glaciation by looking at
the moraines and other deposits in the valley.A
small valley on the west side of Upsala held a smaller glacier and had
been at one time dammed by the glacier in the main valley resulting in
a series of flat lakebeds in the valley.At
least two levels of lateral moraines were evident along the walls of the
valley.
A
carefully conducted survey of geo-trippers indicated that most were impressed.Some
quotes…
‘Not
too bad.’
‘Yes!!!!!’
(said with a Jersey accent)
‘um’
(at a loss for words)
‘I
love what I am seeing’
‘Awesome,
but when are we going to see something beautiful?’
‘Awwesum!’
‘We
ain’t got nothing like this in Sandpoint’
‘Jim,
really knows how to pick them’
The
boat then headed for the Estancia Cristina and we loaded into 2 Mercedes
‘busses’ (Unimogs), truck-like rigs with seating for about 20.Couldn’t
we all use these for field trips?We
followed a track that wound up and around to an overlook of the Upsala
Glacier and ice field escorted by our guides Anahi and Amaren.The
bedrock geology, thinly-bedded turbidites dipping steeply to the east,
controlled the topography as we followed strike valleys and then up and
over ridges that paralleled strike.Many
of the valleys contained lakes and or had flat bottoms indicating former
lakebeds.
At
the end of the track we parked and then hiked on up to the outlook.The
rocks were primarily dark shales and some interbedded sands.They
contained abundant belemnites and awesome ammonites (which appeared to
be most abundant in the darker layers).The
rain at the outcrop deterred few geologists (or as Greg noted, "This is
a geology trip now – got some weather.").The
guide admitted that she had never had as much trouble getting a group to
return from the outlook and reload in the vans (Were we busy looking at
rocks?).
We
then returned to the Estancia Cristina for lunch ( by my vote the best
lunch on the trip).
THE
MENU:
Salads:
Cole slaw with paprika, carrot, lettuce, and tomato with a dab of dulce
leche, and chicken
Empanadasfilled
with cheese and corn
Breads:
little rounds, white and wheat sliced bread, bread sticks
Main
course:
Lamb and Chicken from the Asado with chutney, salta criolla, and chimichurri
(recipe follows)
Desserts:
tarts, chocolate mousse, and so many choices.
Wine
flowed (poured much liked ice tea in the states)
There
were important discussions over lunch.Inquiring
minds are looking for the answers to important questions. Why napkin rings?Etiquette
lessons were provided. Is it true that Barney’s cane is really a Jacob’s
staff or is he using it to dowse for oil?Of
course we now know that it is really a terrorist weapon. Do men wear cups
when they are learning to tango?Still
looking for input on this question.
Chimichurri
Ingredientes:
2
tomates
2
cebollas
perejil
c/n
1
cabeza de ajo
1
morron
100
gr de aji molido
100
gr de oregano
sal
c/n
pimineta
crispada (rota)
vinagre
de alcohol 900 cc
aceite
de oliva 300 cc
Procedimiento
Picar
todo los elementos bien chiquitos.
Poner
en un bol y agegar los liquidos Y reservar en la heladera
Afternoon
Scribes:Erica
Paulson and Erica Peterson
Our
New Year's celebration started in the afternoon at the Upsala restaurant.The
meal consisted of salad, bread, lamb, and tons of desserts (ok, maybe only
7 dessert choices, but they were fantastic!).Our
table consisted of Joan Baldwin, Pete, Don, Bob Yates, and of course the
now infamous E2 gals. At a moment of serenity, our table (the ‘cool table’)
toasted Dottie with champagne.
"This
is the earliest I've ever started New Year's celebration."-
Don
"Anything
is fair game." – Pete
The
day was overcast with occasional light rain, which seemed like perfect
napping weather.Apparently, there
were lots of jokes during the tour…something about Bob Yates being so concerned
about losing his camera that he lost his hat.A
big thanks goes to Pete for finding it!The
flowers looked nice to Bob O. who wanted to take a picture.Every
geologist knows you need something for scale so Joan Alger provided the
"British finger".
The
late afternoon alcohol may have had something to do with the abundance
of jokes, although E2 were oblivious to them due to uncontrollable, momentary
unconsciousness.The benches in
the restaurant were actually quite comfortable.Everything
looked nice through our eyelids.
Thank
you for waking us up!It would have
been a long swim back to El Calafate!Us
‘youngin’s’ needed a siesta to keep up with you party animals!Maybe
we’re just not used to being able to afford alcohol with EVERY MEAL! *
*
(We arrived back in the USA in true fighting form.Haven’t
met a bottle of wine that can beat us yet!)
On
the boat ride more people seemed to be suffering from uncontrollable unconsciousness.We
had about 1 ½ hours back at the hotel before leaving for the restaurant
at 10:00 p.m.It was decorated quite
nicely, with pink, green, and white iridescent balloons and Christmas decorations.Angel
brought red wine.The place settings
contained goofy little glasses.The
server looked at us like we were weird when we asked if they were for water
or wine…still don't know.The server
passed out numbers (which turned out to be quite beneficial to Don).The
buffet style salads and appetizers looked great with the watermelon carved
like a pumpkin. We weren't
sure if we could indulge until Don exclaimed, "Do not pass go, do not collect
$200, but do go to the salad bar."The
steaks were fantastic, although Chris complained "There's no tofu on the
trip" (insert sarcasm).The meal
was great, as well as the wine and champagne.
"We're
kicking Dick Clark's ass tonight." – E. Peterson (a.k.a. Big E, a.k.a.
Erica major)
"Yeah,
Dick has nothing on us." – E. Palson (a.k.a. Little E, a.k.a. Erica minor)
23
was the lucky number for Don.His
basket (which I may add made it through the rest of the trip and back to
Idaho) was filled with goodies.Don
was nice enough to share with the group at a before dinner party later
on the trip.
When
midnight struck there was lots of hugging and celebrating.We
especially enjoyed the firework's display outside compliments of the people
of El Calafate.We were partying
like rock stars, according to Erica Palson.I
think Jim may have been worried about the beverages running out.
"You
might have to get it (wine) at a gas station, but we'll get it." – Jim
(1:00 a.m.)
"'Pertinear'
time for vinto tinto." – Greg (1:35 a.m.)
There
was lots of dancing and celebrating.Who
thought we'd be dancing to Ricky Martin on New Year's Eve.Sally
and Erica Peterson took it upon themselves to ask the Spaniard mountaineers
to join us on the dance floor, which turned out to be a very good thing
for Joan Alger.We think she had
the opportunity to get ‘lucky’ if she wanted to. Erica Palson has decided
she wants to be Joan Alger when she grows up. You are a true marvel, Joan!
People
trickled back to the hotel between the hours of midnight and 3:00.E2
enjoyed more red wine with Sally, Greg, and Jim before passing out at the
end of a very enjoyable day.
The
Wild Ones
TUESDAY,
JANUARY 1, 2002:El
Calafate to Puerto Natales, Chile
Morning
Scribes:Gary
and Bev Webster
We
had a 7:30 wakeup call, 8:00 breakfast, and 9:05 departure.Many
comments at breakfast about the activities of certain unnamed members of
the group at the New Year's eve dinner and party, however, our Canadian
Erica was applauded when she arrived for breakfast.
Joan
A. arrived on the bus wearing her New Year's eve hat to cheers.
Joan
and Mel presented their party hats to the two Ericas in recognition of
their party activities.
Some
bottles of Don Hagen's prize was distributed a bit for safe-keeping.
Jim
started the day by asking, "Where the hell is Mel and Joan this
morning?".
Route
of travel from Calafate to Puerto Natales was changed to choice three as
two of the passes that were the first and second choices were closed for
highway repair.Route taken was
the gravel Hwy 40 via Rio Turbio with a brief stop at the junction with
the highway from Calafate.
This
route crossed a drumlin field and offered views of volcanic plugs to the
west.Most of the morning travel
was across a bunch grass prairie dotted with a few large erratics and some
kettle lakes, most of which were dry.Shortly
before the lunch stop a few weather-beaten trees appeared.
Coffee
pot on the bus plugged, to the dismay of several caffine lovers.
Ross
cleaned it out!
As
the sandwiches were being distributed at the roadside pullover for lunch,
we had a brief cornsnow shower.Glacial
sediments in the bar-ditch
displayed
a number of interesting sedimentary structures.
Afternoon
Scribe:Don
Hagen
Put
geologists down anywhere near an outcrop, and they will start looking at
the rocks.Our roadside lunch stop
en route to Puerto Natales, Chile was no exception.A
road cut there showed glacial-outwash events with many flame structures
formed by dewatering and curious, only slightly consolidated conglomerate
balls, which Don Triplehorn concluded had resulted from thawing of boulders
transported by glacial outwash while still frozen.
After
a lunch of meat and cheese subs, some of us walked down the gravel road
and were half way to Puerto Natales before our giant bus came along (just
kidding).On board the bus, Monte
and Dale generously shared their wines with us.Then
we made a short stop for a reported flat tire (or was it a fire?) that,
thankfully, turned out to be only a loose belt.Next
the driver stampeded herds of sheep on and near the road with his horn
honking.
Then
we stopped at a west-facing road cut showing slightly northeast dipping
Upper Cretaceous swamp and shallow marine deposits with two ten-foot lignite
beds separated by twenty feet of concretionary grey mudstone with leaf
imprints in some concretions and thin-bedded marine shale with pelecypods
(including possibly dinoceramus).These
beds were cut and displaced seven feet by a south-heading thrust fault
that had slid along the base of a seven-foot thick point-bar conglomerate
and sand meander fill which had previously cut into the lower coal bed.The
fault died out up section into bedding-plane drag folds in the upper coal
bed.The upper part of the section
had been cut into and filled with conglomerate glacial outwash.Up
section we thus saw transgression (concretionary mudstone with leaves overlain
by thin shale beds with palecypods), then regression (coal overlain by
concretionary mudstone; both cut and filled by a river meander), then transgression
(marine-thin shales), then regression (coal overlain by non-marinemudstone),
then thrust faulting and, much later, glacial cut and fill. (Sorry, but
this is supposed to be a "GeoTrip" by GSA.)
The
next events on our odyssey were crossing the border.Upon
leaving Argentina, we spent one and one-half hours in and out of the custom's
house and moving everything from one bus to another. All of us had to fill
out forms and clear customs into Chile.The
only hitch was that Grace had Dale's passport, which they recognized because
she didn't have a beard.We had to
leave Angel's son, Raúl, because written permission to leave Argentina
had not been obtained from his mother, and she could not be reached by
phone.
Then
we drove past northeast-dipping Lower Cretaceous back-arc basin shale beds
and arrived at Puerto Natales on Ultima Esperanza Sound and saw a dramatic
view of the Andes across the water. The Hotel Glaciares was cozy--too cozy,
as they neglected to leave room for suitcases.
Changing
money was a team effort, as the ATM would not accept the cards of half
of us.The evening was clear, but
so crisp that I shuddered to think what winter must be like.Jim
said the winter suicide rate among the few that stayed over was very high
(No thanks!).Surprisingly, Chile
(at least here) looks less prosperous than Argentina.
Time
for bed (as early as 11:00 P.M.!) after a dinner of tasty salmon and a
good dry white wine.
WEDNESDAY,
JANUARY2,
2002: Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
Morning
Scribe:Joan
Baldwin
At
8 AM, we had a continental breakfast at Hotel Glaciares in Puerto Natales.
We loaded onto the bus at 9 A.M., but before we could get going to the
park, we needed to find a bank for Angel so he could exchange some money.
Some of the group wanted to exchange money also, so Dale collected money
from them and went into the bank with Angel. Unfortunately, Angel needed
all of the small bills the bank had on hand, so Dale did not exchange any
money.
Javier,
a ranger from Torres del Paine Park, rode on the bus with us and gave us
a brief history of the region as we drove northward on a graded dirt road.
Puerto Natales is the capital of this province, which is within the Region
de Magallanes y de la Antartida Chilena, the twelfth and southernmost region
of Chile. Punta Arenas is the capital of the twelfth region. The natives
of the area were here 11,000 years before white men came. There are none
living today because of illnesses (brought by white man?). Magellan was
the first European to visit here (1520) and the winds were so strong that
he had to stay 27 days, before he could proceed westward. Evidence of the
strong persistent winds here can be seen in the dwarfed trees.Europeans
settled in the area in the late 19th century and one of the
first was Hermann Eberhard, who established a sheep ranch.Early
on, one of the dominant enterprises was the slaughter house and meatpacking
plant at Bories. It still operates today, but on a much smaller scale.
Punta Arenas was a major port of call for international shipping, but when
the Panama Canal was opened in 1914, the shipping stopped and the economy
of this region was seriously affected. Today, the prosperity of this region
depends upon oil, gas, fishing and wool.
Mid-morning
we stopped at Villa Cerro Castillo for drinks, snacks, souvenirs, etc.Continuing
on our way north we saw condorsand
rheas. We stopped at a lake, where there were outcrops of the black shales
of the Zapata formation. These sediments were deposited in an anoxic back
arc basin during the Cretaceous and at the same time, to the west there
was a subduction zone with a volcanic arc that contributed ash to this
basin. During the Late Cretaceous into the Paleocene, these sediments were
folded and then intruded in the Miocene by granite. Uplift and erosion
since then has led to the development of steep-sided, jagged towers of
black (Cretaceous shales) and white (Miocene granite) rock that stand almost
2000 meters above the Patagonian steppe. The peaks are often referred to
as “Cuernos del Paine” (Horns of Paine).
We
entered the Park at the Laguna Azul entrance. At various places we saw
guanacos, which have become numerous here due to the United Nations’ Biosphere
Reserve system that was established in 1978. As we neared Lake Nordenskold,
we saw some of the spectacular towers partially covered with clouds. We
stopped a few times for pictures of the towers and the Lakes Nordenskold
and Sarmiento. As we progressed westward, we noticed that the attitudes
of the Cretaceous sediments changed from nearly horizontal to steeply dipping
and folded. We were entering the fold thrust belt created by the Late Cretaceous
to Paleocene orogeny.
We
had lunch at the head of the Salto Grande trail and then took off on a
2+-hour hike. We saw a waterfall created by the water from Lake Nordenskold
dropping down into Lake Pahoe. After that, the trail went through beautiful
foliage to the south shore of Lake Nordenskold where there was a spectacular
view of some of the towers.
Following
the hike, we drove to Weber Bridge for a group photo with the towers in
the background. On the return trip, we stopped at Hotel Pehoe for hot chocolate,
coffee and tea and a fantastic view of the towers above Lake Pehoe.
Afternoon
Scribe:Dale
Kunitomi
It’s
a New Year and we’re in Puerto Natales, a small pleasant Chilean town on
Ultima Esperanza Sound.What a great
name, “Last Hope Sound”.Hernando
Magellan and crew must have been thoroughly confused trying to make sense
of these torturous sounds.However,
looking at the map of southern South American it appears to me that Magellan
could not have entered Ultima Esperanza Sound from the east or south and
once entering the Sound, it becomes a dead-end at the northwest end.Or
maybe I got the story all wrong.
Raúl
Mansilla is still among the missing, having been detained at the Chile-Argentina
border because he was underage and the officials were unable to contact
his mother to verify that Angel was not kidnapping him.We
hope he’ll be at the hotel when we return this evening.
We’re
staying at the Hotel Glaciares, a nice small hotel one block from the waterfront.The
town was founded to service the cattle trade, which flourished from 1910
to 1956.While walking about the
town I notice many fit young persons outfitted as climbers.Apparently
some climbers take the tour boats to the southern part of Torres Del Paine
National Park and begin their climbs there.
We
visit Torres Del Paine today and the views are wonderful.The
weather is quite cool and very windy.Lunch
is cold sandwiches and soda that we eat huddled in whatever lee area we
can find.But soon thereafter we’re
off on one of the nicer hikes of the trip.We
view a wonderful waterfall roaring over Cretaceous black shale.The
destination is a wonderful view of the Torres across a wind blown lake.This
is the famous Patagonia wind we’ve been expecting.Today
is Group Picture Day, and it’s been quite cold so, although most have worn
the GSA Darwin tee shirts, they’re hidden beneath sweaters and jackets.On
Weber Bridge we have the Torres and a lake behind us for our group picture.
Shortly
thereafter, we stop at the Hotel Pehoe for hot chocolate.Access
to the hotel is across a 50-yard footbridge and the sitting room has large
window of great views of the Torres.The
wind is still blowing strong and the clouds are always moving, creating
constantly changing views.Unknown
to most of the group, the President of Chile, Ricardo Lagos, and entourage
are in the dining room, and Jim Reynolds and Ross McCasland somehow recognize
him and introduce themselves and get to shake hands.Not
something you could do with President Bush!
We
don’t depart the hotel until 8 P.M., and we still have several hours for
our return trip to Puerto Natales.We
arrive just after 10 P.M., and Raúl is there.He’s
just arrived after spending the previous night and all day with the Chilean
border guards while they were waiting for his mother to verify that we
was accompanying his father on this trip.Ruth
Nicolich warmly welcomes her “lost son” back to our group.
A
late dinner again; we don’t begin eating until after 11 PM.Raúl
passes around an egg-nog like drink that he calls “monkey tail.”Besides
this drink, a large volume of beer and wine is consumed this evening.Dinner
consists of 5 small fried fish with rice or potatoes, really much better
than it sounds.It’s late, and we’re
tired and when Jim announces that we’ll be waking up at 6:30 AM, lots of
groans are heard.By now all the
other diners have left, and about midnight, we stagger back to the Hotel
Glaciares and flop into bed.
It’s
been just another great day at the southern end of the world.Thanks,
Jim and GSA!
THURSDAY,
JANUARY 3, 2002:Ultima
Experanza Sound
Morning
Scribe:Grace
Kunitomi
Overnight
in Puerto Natales.We awoke at 6:30
A.M., had breakfast at 7:00 and at 8:00 A.M. we went downstairs to walk
to the tour boat.But just before
leaving the room Raúl called saying, “Hurry, you’re late.”We
rushed downstairs and joined Carol and Lee and found everybody else had
already departed.Raúl hurried
us out of the hotel and as fast as Lee’s bum knee could hobble, we made
our way to the dock.We passed Angel
who was rushing back to the hotel for some reason.We
quickly boarded the boat and, when Angel returned, he was carrying Grace’s
wool hat that she’d dropped in the street on our way to the dock.For
recovering her hat Grace now owes Angel her life and is now preparing to
join him in Bolivia as his love slave.
We
pulled away from Puerto Natales with several other tour boats and made
our way west into Ultima Esperanza Sound.The
main cabin of the boat was crowded and smelled strongly of diesel fuel,
and Grace decided it was better to suffer frostbitten ears and nose than
to become ill in the cabin.So for
the entire voyage, about 8 hours, she stationed herself on the starboard
side where the fresh, COLD wind kept the diesel fumes from her sensitive
nose.Without the wool hat she would
have expired early in the voyage.
On
our epic voyage we observed sea lions, cormorants and condors.The
condors were only seen as small black images against the sky, and the sea
lions slept in crevices in the rock walls.We
landed and took a 45 minute hike to the foot of a very nice, small glacier.The
weather was cold with slight drizzle.On
the way back an amazing quantity of beer was consumed.In
the western part of Ultima Esperanza Sound the weather was quite cold and
it warmed remarkably as we returned to Puerto Natales.One
of the reasons for the town’s location is the warmer location.
Afternoon
Scribe:Don
Triplehorn
The
aging 21 DeMayo cutter docked at Puerto Toro, where we took a 1 km walk
to Serrano Glacier, part of Monte Bamaceda National Park. The rocky trail
skirted the edge of the water and was not steep, but with lots of ups and
downs and some bouldery parts. The deciduous forest here is in marked contrast
with the drier area we experienced around Puerto Natales. The weather turned
to mixed, light rain with periods of bright sunshine. The icefall here
is spectacular; much longer and steeper than seen before.Calving
must be active (tides? Storms?) because the glacier doesn’t extend much
beyond the shoreline. Abundant globular yellow-white Indian Brad fungi
were on the ground. These are part of common bushy parasitic growths on
trees that we have seen elsewhere; e.g., Tierra del Feugo Natl. Park (Jan.
8) and at Lago Escondido (Jan. 5).
Shortly
after leaving the dock we made a quick pass along the icefalls and hanging
glaciers on the west slope of Monte Balmaceda.The
ice now terminates above sea level, but reached the water 15 years ago.The
freshly scoured rock surfaces provide a good view of the contact between
the plutonic rocks and the well-bedded dark shales they intrude.During
the return the crew served pisco (alcohol) with glacier ice. This may have
contributed to widespread napping, along with last night’s post-midnight
dinner followed by an early rise this morning.
Don
Hagen’s New Year’s prize basket of food and wine provided the nucleus of
a pre-dinner cocktail party before the usual10 P.M. dinner.This
was at yet another different restaurant, serving a fine shellfish casserole.
FRIDAY,
JANUARY 4, 2002:
Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas, Chile
We headed south from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas
(Punta Arenas means "Sandy Point"). Someone announced that Punta Arenas
has the distinction of being home to the southernmost brewery in the world!
Jim says there are alkali olivine basalt plugs across southern Patagonia.
We turned off the paved road on which we'd been travelling to a gravel
road toward Rio Verde and Seno Skyring. We soon came upon an enormous flock
of sheep being driven down the road by four men on horses, other men on
foot and numerous dogs.Since everyone
wanted to take pictures, it took forever for the bus to get past them.
Bob O. said he was so excited by his first Chile sheep drive actually recorded
on his very own camera!! Mel and Peter must have WONDERFUL videos.
We
saw a flock of Southern Lapwings--black with a large amount of white on
upper side, long beak.Seno Skyring
and the Andes became visible to the west. The Fitzroy Channel (named after
the captain of the Beagle) connects Seno Skyring with Seno Otway. We have
been travelling through a commune since we turned off the main road. According
to Jim, communes were formed under Allende. When Pinochet took over after
Allende was killed, many of the communes were disbanded but some still
persist, especially in the south, of which Río Verde is one. We
had lunch at Hotel Rio Verde inside the Rio Verde commune. It was settled
by Croatians and turned into a hotel recently.Jim
says he was the first to make a reservation online:
ioverde
There were hand-knit sweaters, hats, etc. for sale. They lit a big
firein the parlor and another in the very large hall where we ate lunch
(It was cold when we first walked in.).
Scribe:Barney
McCasland
Exploration
of the most southerly southwest Chile available by well-traveled public
roads. A road log of sorts uses time (40-50 mph) by bus on paved highway
instead of mileage.
We
are up at 6 A.PM., packed, and have breakfast by 7-7:30. Breakfasts are
usually continental—coffee, juice, cereal, rolls or croissants.(I
missed my bacon and eggs.)However,
I never suffer from hunger.
Latitude
here is 51040’(Compare with Calgary, Alberta.). We
leave Puerto Natales, located at sea level, at 9:30 A.M. Land rises gently
to the east. 9:40 A.M. –We reach the port of entry from Argentina and cross
the Argentina-Chile border. The Continental divide is comparatively low
at an estimated 2000’. Low compared to the 10,000 foot Andes.
From
the port of entry we drive southeast parallel to a lateral moraine to the
east.(10:00 A.M.)Up and over the
moraine.Moister climate. Flat country
sloping gently west with moss on the trees.Plenty
of open prairie land.(10:15 A.M.)Estancia
Cerro Negro. (10:25 A.M.)East dipping
cuestas, probably Cretaceous, parallel the road a few miles to east. Argentina-Chile
border.
Rio
Rubens, a tributary of Rio Gallegos, flows east from Chile. (10:30 A.M.)
Estancia J.S. Jarznim --- Highway turns east along the south boundary of
the Argentine border with Chile.This
boundary follows parallel 520S and then turns slightly SE north
of the NE outlet of the Strait of Magellan.
(10:45
A.M.) At Morro Chico the highway turns south crossing eastward-flowing
tributaries of Rio Gallegos (Atlantic drainage). Travel is across low rolling
to flat pampas. (11:00 A.M.).Estancia
La Invernada— Passing Villa Tehuelches. (11:15
A.M.) Leave pavement and take good gravel road southwest toward Rio Verde.
(22km). Low flat grassy plains (Westward Pacific drainage).Abundant
low bushes topped with white flowers---look like blooming blackberry bushes.They
turn out to be a sage similar to the purple sage of the American west.
(11:35
A.M.) We encounter a large herd of sheep being moved in our direction along
the road, fenced on both sides.They
were herded by several caballeros on horseback with very active sheep dogs.Great
photo opportunities, especially for those with video cameras.
Stopped
for lunch at historical and picturesque Hotel Rio Verde on the Fitzroy
Channel. The hotel is long, low-lying with barren walls on the west side
facing the strong prevailing west winds.Multi-colored
roses bloomed along the sheltered east side.The
dining room was not open, but the owner allowed us to eat our lunch there.
Warm fire in the fireplace. The owners operate a ferry to cross the 100
yard-wide Fitzroy channel to Isla Riesco, a large island. The Fitzroy channel
connects Seno Otway on the south with Seno Skyring on the north.Captain
Fitzroy, in the Beagle, sailed through this channel, exploring the area
before returning with Darwin. This is great cattle country. There are barren
pampas on the island at sea level, but rise to wooded and glaciated 15,000’peaks,
50 miles to the west.
(2:00
P.M.) Leave Rio Verde.Travelingsouth
along the east bank of the Fitzroy channel, we crossed road cuts with cross-bedded
sands and gravels from outwash deposits.
(2:30
P.M.) Salt lakes on the left—Otway Sound on the right.More
rainfall supports cattle—Herefords and Black Angus. Across the Otway Sound,
in the distance, rising hills are tree-covered, while on this side, low
rolling hills are covered with sagebrush. Broad tidal flats along the east
side of Otway.
Our
road rises to an elevated 40-50 foot coastal terrace—Patagonian plains.(2:45
P.M.) Ranch house on the right in some trees--- Drumlins on the left. Road
rises to a second level terrace. (2:48 P.M.) On highway 40, turn right
toward Punta Arenas –traveling along a narrow isthmus separating the Strait
of Magellan and the Seno Otway.The
isthmus connects the Brunswick Peninsula to the Chilean mainland. The 20-mile
wide (at this point) Strait of Magellan separates the South American mainland
from Tierra del Fuego.(3:30 P.M.)
Arrive at Punta Arenas.Latitude
52045’South - Longitude 70030’West.To
Hotel Austral for a fine evening and a good night’s rest.
Afternoon
Scribe:
Danielle Sharp
After
arriving at our hotel and checking into our rooms, several of us decided
to find the southern-most brewery in the world. Unfortunately, you had
to have reservations, and they were already booked.What
to do?What to do?
We
decided to just walk around the city and do some exploring.We
noticed huge statues all around, and there were two particularly large,
beautiful ones in a lovely plaza at the center of town.There
were about 15 men at the base of them, and they were all wearing yellow
Lipton Tea caps and taking pictures of each other.They
were speaking English and one man from Ft. Worth, Texas, said they were
mostly middle-aged men in the midst of a mid-life crisis.They
were waiting their turn to fly to Antarctica to attempt climbing Vinson
Massif. One of their younger members got Lipton to sponsor his climb, at
a cost of $26,000, thus the caps.Lipton's
web site was planning on following their climb.
We
offered to take their pictures, and in return, they asked us to have
our pictures taken with their yellow "Lipton" caps.As
we were preparing for the picture, an adorable dog took his place
in front of me.He was definitely
posing.Before long he was affectionately
leaning into me, and I wanted to, somehow, take him back to the U.S. with
me.Everyone laughed, and one of
the climbers suggested that the dog wear a cap too.However,
mi perrito would have nothing to do with the cap.We
still got great pictures.
There
were several vendors in the plaza, so that gave everyone a chance to purchase
a souvenir from Chile.We bought
what we thought was a hand-carved pen, but upon closer inspection later
on, it turned out to be an ordinary pin covered with fimo, a type of clay,
and painted.It was still interesting.
We
parted company with several others in our group, and Mark, Bob O., and
George wanted to find a place to enjoy a beer.Ruth
and I wanted wine and a snack.We
found a charming little restaurant and were thrilled to see they had empanadas.It
surprised us, however, to see how tiny they were. Nonetheless, it was a
lot of fun.
A
short time later, everyone was to meet on the second floor of our hotel
for a geological discussion.I'll
admit that I stayed in our hotel room to work on a troublesome crossword
puzzle.Sadly, that time didn't prove
to be profitable, so I tried to sneak into the room around 8:30 P.M., but
Jim gave me the "look" and announced, "Mrs. Sharp, you're late!"
After
walking to Sotito's Bar for dinner, our group enjoyed a hearty meal of
a delicious crab salad, followed by either conger eel or grilled chicken
and french fries, both of which were tasty.However,
the real treat came in the way of ripe, fresh strawberries with cream topping,
and cappuccino capped off the meal.Yum!
I
can't leave it at this, however, before mentioning that Ross must love
pepper.When he proceeded to salt
and pepper his fish, the cap of the pepper shaker came off, resulting with
a large pile of pepper on his plate.He
really did look a little stunned.Maybe
it wasn't enough pepper.
Before
retiring, we were told that we didn't have reservations for the ferry we
had planned on taking, so we needed to go a different route and take another
ferry across the Straits of Magellan.Hasta
mañana!
FRIDAY,
JANUARY 5. 2002:PUNTA ARENAS, CHILE
TO HOSTERÍA PETREL, ARGENTINA
Morning
Scribe:ImeldaA.
Cragin
I
share the scribe duties for today with John Williams as we GSA Patagonian
Adventurers continue to make our way from Punta Arenas, Chile across the
Straits of Magellan to Tierra del Fuego, the “Land of Fire,” where we will
cross the border back to Argentina and make our way down to the Hostería
Petrel along Lake Escondido.
We
stayed overnight at the Hotel Austral in downtown Punta Arenas.The
day began for most of us with our gathering at breakfast.The
breakfast area had large windows looking out towards a courtyard with trees
and an ornate old mansion.It was
a lovely view and the breakfast was good!Nice
toast and jam, yogurt, fruit, cereal, pastries, juice and (since I am not
a coffee drinker) reportedly good coffee.Stories
circulated on how some early risers paid special homage to a certain bronze
statue in the main plaza and had photos taken to memorialize the moment
(See photo on following page.).There
were other stories of how strong coffee was needed to brush away the effects
of some residual vino tinto from last night.
Then
it was time to gather up all our gear and make it down to the lobby to
get on our way.While the luggage
made its way down the stairs and in the single elevator, Chris Metzler,
Lee Shropshire and I noticed the beautiful fossil shells and stylolites
captured within the marble steps of the hotel’s main entrance.We
had a short impromptu geology discussion on the possible depositional environment
and age of this
decorative
rock.Geologists can find entertainment
anywhere!
As
we all waited outside of the front door of the hotel in the cold air for
the bus to arrive, many noted the myriad of telephone wires all converging
on to one telephone pole across the street.It
looked like a United Airlines route map for all fights going to the Miami
hub.Could this possibly be one of
the reasons for the fast growing cellular phone services here in Argentina?
Once
the bus arrived, there was the challenge of trying to fit in all our rolling
suitcases, duffle bags and backpacks.George
Sharp, Ross McCasland, Dale Kunitomi, Greg Bernanski and Mark Nicolich
heaved and hoed with the bus driver and the hotel staff to fill the belly
of the bus with all our stuff.While
the packing was going on, others were writing last minute postcards to
send in order to use up those last few Chilean stamps, since we will be
crossing the border back to Argentina later today.
Then
we were finally on our way out of town.We
were headed to catch the ferry that would carry us across the Straits of
Magellan to Tierra del Fuego.We
were originally going to make our crossing at Punta Arenas to Porvenir.However,
plans changed and we headed north to Punta Delgada to make our ferry crossing
over to Punta Anegada on Tierra del Fuego.
Once
we were through the suburbs of Punta Arenas, Monte Marshall enlightened
us again by giving us a follow-up briefing on the magnetic anomaly information
he talked about during last night’s geology lecture.He
passed around maps containing bathymetry, altimeter, magnetic anomaly and
sea floor spreading data for southern South America and the Tierra del
Fuego area for our reading pleasure.
The
scenery outside was back to vast grasslands sparsely dotted with estancias
and sheep containing glacial features of eskers, kames, kettle lakes, and
some drumlins.[Note: For
those of us who cannot remember or would like to know what these glacial
geology terms mean, please go to the end of the scribe book for their definitions.If
you are not interested….never mind.Also,
you are more than welcome to make up your own definitions to these terms.It
makes for more interesting scribe notes.]We
were following the northern coastline of the Straits of Magellan in the
area called Cumbres de San Gregorio (Summits of San Gregorio).There
were also some large drilling rigs in operation being used for oil exploration
and development.As we continued
on, a number of people participated in one of our favorite bus pastimes
-- napping.
We
finally made our way to the ferry landing at Punta Delgada.The
ferry had not yet arrived.There
were at least a half-dozen cars waiting with our bus.Some
folks wanted to spend the last bit of their Chilean money.So,
they got out of the bus and went to the Hostería El Faro to search
for some last minute goodies, find a bathroom, and to shop, shop, shop.Some
of us walked down to the beach to take pictures of the Straits of Magellan.It
was cold and very windy.Near the
vehicle waiting area there was a large sign with the greeting, “Welcome
to the Straits of Magellan”.There
was a work crew putting up a large billboard ad next to this welcome sign.It
was interesting to see these four men hard at work constructing the frame,
hoisting up the sign and trying to nail it in place in that wind.
Once
the ferry arrived, the front of the ferry came down like a large landing
craft ramp right onto the shoreline.A
large flat bed truck carrying a bulldozer was the first to come off, followed
by a number of large trucks.Once
all the vehicles were off, the crew proceeded to hose down the deck and
inner hull of the ferry.This procedure
took about 20 minutes.Then our bus
drove on board and parked in the center of the ferry.All
the other waiting cars followed along and were directed to park along the
port side.A few of our stragglers
who were still shopping and spending their Chilean money (Joan Balwin,
Grace Kunitomi, Ross and Barney McCasland) were the last ones to come aboard
the ferry as all other passengers had boarded and the ferry was ready to
go.
The
crossing was very windy and cold.The
sky turned gray and cloudy.There
were whitecaps and a few other ships in the Straits.We
all got off the bus to explore this ferry called Fueguino (possible translations:
“one of fire” or perhaps “sparky”?).The
crew quarters, galley area, lifeboats, and bridge were located along the
starboard side.A number of people
went down to the galley to get some hot chocolate.I
witnessed the Fueguino Ladies Auxiliary Tea (Joan Alger, Christy Brenner,
Bev Webster and Ruth Nicolich,) display the proper way to sip (not tea),
but hot chocolate (with their pinkies out.).Lovely
ladies, just lovely!While the ladies
and some of our gents were warm and cozy below, some of us climbed up on
to the upper decks to take pictures and to feel the wind and the spray
coming over the rails.What a totally
invigorating experience!The flags
were flapping wildly, and Dale’s skipper’s hat decided to take flight.Luckily
it landed on board on the lower deck of the ferry and was returned to its
happy owner!
It
was a short 30-minute ferry ride.Soon
we reached the northern shore of Tierra del Fuego.Once
the ferry’s forward ramp came down, all the vehicles started their engines
and began to disembark.Some of us
climbed back onto the bus, while others of us walked off the ferry.A
few of us walked down and put our hands into the cold waters of the Straits
of Magellan.There was a small sandbar
that had built up next to the ferry landing, and a few of us exclaimed
that it had the same shape and the same mechanism of sand build up of Santa
Barbara Harbor!It always amazes
me to see geologic processes in action just on a smaller scale in another
part of the world!
After
some of us were through posing next to the sign that said, “Welcome to
the Large Island Tierra del Fuego, Chile”, 
we
all got back on the bus and started across the vast rolling, treeless grasslands
of Tierra del Fuego that have been shaped by glacial action.The
sun had finally come out and it was warm in the bus.We
reverted to what we do best on the bus….eating, drinking and of course
– more napping.Some of us participated
in a lively conversation about students, teaching styles and relationships.We
passed a few more oil wells and some oil and gas pipelines.Argentina
has active producing oil and gas fields, however, the majority of the oil
and gas processing occurs in neighboring Chile.We
drove past one well where gas was being flared off and flames were shooting
up forming a large fire…perhaps giving rise to a more modern day interpretation
of Tierra del Fuego?
We
soon arrived at the Chilean border checkpoint at San Sebastián.We
all got off the bus armed with our passports and important papers. One
by one, we went through the ritual process of getting our papers examined
and passport stamped.The border
was busy with two other tourist busses that had pulled up after we arrived.We
also witnessed private cars having their tires sprayed by young men carrying
a sprayer-hose connected to a plastic backpack unit containing what may
have been a pesticide solution.These
are some of the preventative measures being used to try to stop the spread
of hoof and mouth disease.
Once
through the line, we were back on the bus again.We
drove past oil pipelines and flocks of sheep grazing on the pampas.It
was a short ride to Bahía San Sebastián, where we arrived
at the Argentina border checkpoint.Again,
we all lined up with passport and important papers in hand.There
were signs and photos reminding us of what is not allowed into Argentina.It
was very educational for us as we waited patiently in line.
Finally
with papers and passports stamped, we were directed to walk across the
grounds over to the Argentine Automobile Club to have lunch.Apparently,
we had arrived two hours early, and the restaurant was not prepared for
such a large group.The kitchen put
together what they could, and yes it was those tasty cheese sandwiches
that we have all come to love and cherish.Oh,
yum!I had lunch with Chris Metzler,
Mary Dowse, Joan Alger, and the two Ericas.We
had a great time telling stories.Even
Mary Dowse got to say a few words as her voice was trying to come back!We
did get her to laugh a lot!
After
lunch, Jim Reynolds gave a briefing on gold prospecting at Bahía
San Sebastián.Jim told us
the story of a Romanian immigrant, who came to Bahía San Sebastián
and found a fair amount of gold in a few places along the peninsula and
in a few of the streams further north.He
set up his own mining operation and became extremely wealthy.He
became the dictator of Tierra del Fuego.He
was able to mint his own gold coins, and they were accepted in both banks
of Argentina and Chile.His name
was Julio Popper.If you ever read
the children’s book, Mister Popper’s Penguins, Jim suspects that
he was the inspiration for that book.Julio
Popper was an interesting guy, who even had his own private army and dressed
them up in Prussian-type uniforms.Jim
said that when we go to Ushuaia, Julio Popper’s home is now either the
museum that we will be going to visit or the National Bank.
Julio
Popper was a very big name in Fuegian history.There
are several versions of stories that have been circulating on what happen
to him.The one area where the stories
converge is that Popper realized that there must be a source of the gold.One
version said that he went up into the Cordillera Darwin to look for it.Another
version said that he went up to the Andes.Another
version said that he searched the beaches on the north side.Unfortunately,
Popper had an accident and died at the age of 36.That
was the end of Popper’s story.Since
then there have been quite a few people that have come back looking for
his gold deposit.Jim said that concentrations
of gold have been found in the area, but it would not be enough for a commercial
mine operation.Jim has been doing
some exploration for the gold down here.We
all volunteered to help!
Jim
said that the sediment is coming down from the north, which is interesting
because the currents are all coming up from the south.Right
off the bay, there is a strong current coming down from the north and another
strong current coming up from the south colliding at the end of the peninsula.The
bay itself is extremely shallow, and the receding tide goes way out.Last
year, Jim was standing out on the peninsula and he could see the tide falling
and it was going right by him in a manner of about two minutes.When
the tide goes out, it goes out about 1 kilometer off shore and it is incredible
to watch.Jim also said that if we
ever come back here and want to explore some of these beaches, you could
rent a four-wheel drive vehicle and drive on the beaches along this whole
coast going up to the north point.However,
there are a lot of oil lands along the coast, so there may be some restrictions
on some of the beaches.Jim said
that one Korean family owns all this land in the area.They
have a huge amount of land in this territory.Jim
hopes to be back next year to continue with his exploration project.
Jim
said that we could go down to the beach to see the tidal flats and experience
the Patagonian wind for fifteen to twenty minutes.He
warned us to watch out for the muddy parts, because they are really sticky.We
were told to try to stay on the sand and the pebbles so we wouldn’t get
stuck.Jim also said that the sand
contains high heavy mineral content.There
is a lot of olivine, pyroxenes, amphiboles, as well as, a lot of magnetite,
a little bit of ilmenite, and a tiny bit of gold.
Someone
asked if the terraces were Holocene in age.Jim
said that he thinks that the terraces are Holocene in the immediate area,
and that the terraces throughout this region are Holocene and Pleistocene.The
glacier came through right here in Bahía San Sebastián. The
bay was created by glacial scour.This
valley was the glacial outlet to the ocean.
Jim
said that the ridge to the north of us is the kame terrace of the glacier
that emptied into San Sebastián Bay.He
thinks that here are a whole bunch of kames stacked up on a large mass
of unsorted material deposited by the glacier.This
glacial material is now exposed in the sea cliffs.This
large mass of glacial material is possibly the source of some of the gold
that has been winnowed out due to erosion.
This
bay’s tidal range is great.The tidal
flats can go out for a long way when the tide is out, which is why there
are no boats moored close by. We had the chance to go down to the beach
and witness this for ourselves.The
tide was out and the Patagonian wind was fierce.We
all had fun taking photos of the bay, the sea cliffs and all the ripple
marks.The beach was covered with
a myriad of smooth, rounded metamorphic and igneous pebbles and shells.A
few people ventured out onto the mud flats, while most everyone enjoyed
beachcombing for Fuegian rock and shell treasures to bring home.
We
are now back on the bus and out of the brisk wind.We
are heading south, following the eastern coast of Tierra del Fuego toward
Rio Grande.We had stopped in Rio
Grande on our flight first day down to Patagonia.Driving
through Rio Grande, one could not help but notice the red tubular structures
that were lined up like soldiers along the main highway for at least a
quarter of a mile.Jim commented
how he was so taken by this display of public art!
It
was back to more rolling grasslands for another couple hours with sea cliffs,
terraces and tidal flats in the distance marking the eastern coast of the
island.The pampas appears so desolate
with its stark beauty.It is here
where the wind rules.Then we reached
the foothills of the Cordillera Darwin.We
have crossed into the transition zone between the grasslands and the beech
forests of the Cordillera Darwin.It
nice to see road cuts with rocks exposed.It
is also nice to see more topography and vegetation…and finally some trees!
We
are heading to Lago Fagnano, which is located along the plate boundary
between the South American Plate and the Scotia Plate.We
cross over the plate boundary and stop at a wonderful viewpoint looking
down on Lake Fagnano with dead trees marking its eastern shoreline.We
stopped at the very picturesque Hostería Kaiken, which had a wonderful
garden of red Icelandic poppies and brilliant purple, blue, pink, white
and red lupines in full bloom.The
afternoon sun made the lupines glow.We
all enjoyed photographing and taking in such a beautiful sight!Jim
told us that we would be back here for lunch tomorrow.We
were all looking forward to that!
Back
on the bus, we were now heading along the south shore of Lake Fagnano in
search of our hotel for the night.The
Hostería is along Lake Escondido (Hidden Lake), a smaller lake connected
to Lake Fagnano to the south.Once
we turned off the highway, we made our way down a narrow dirt road.It
was so peaceful and beautiful traveling through the beech forest.The
dirt road opened up to a large circle driveway and we were here…at the
Hostería Petrel.What a gorgeous
place!There was a big beautiful
lodge next to Lake Escondido, but…. even better were the small log cabins
placed all along the edge of the lake surrounded by a forest.It
was heavenly!
The
married couples were given rooms in the lodge.They
all had a large master bedroom with a large Jacuzzi tub in their bathroom
to enjoy.The rest of us were assigned
to the log cabins along the lake.Ross
and Barney McCasland got the closest cabin to the lodge.Joan
Alger and I got the next one down.I’m
not sure where everyone else was assigned.Joan
and I loved our rustic cabin.We
had a wonderful front porch that looked out over the lake.A
tree in front of our porch had branches covered with wispy tendrils of
Spanish moss hanging down like silky-fine yellow green hair waving in the
breeze.The table, chairs and the
beds inside were all handmade and constructed of logs.There
was a master bedroom, a large bathroom, and the main living room, which
had three beds and large windows looking out at the lake.The
floors were wooden and the large windows had woven grass blinds.It
was very cozy and comfortable.We
chose to sleep in the front room looking out over the lake.Joan
Alger exclaimed that the lamp hanging from the ceiling with a pleated white
paper lampshade was just like her lamp at her home!Again,
isn’t it a small world!
We
all met at the lodge and watched the wonderful sunset and had dinner in
the massive dining room.We had one
waiter, who served all of us.He
was so friendly, cheerful and fun.We
had an exceptional meal that started with a great tuna salad appetizer,
followed with really light, crispy French fries, a large salad with carrots
and tomatoes tossed with a vinaigrette dressing, and a most excellent tasting
steak.There was also vino tinto
and blanco of course!Then to top
it off, we had an ice cream sandwich dessert that hit the spot!The
lodge fireplace had a great fire going.Everyone
was in a festive mood.It was too
bad that we have to leave this place tomorrow morning.This
would have been a great place to stay for at least two nights so that we
could enjoy the grounds and the amenities.
After
dinner, we were teasing Raúl Mansilla, when he said that he wanted
to go climb one of the nearby peaks tomorrow morning.Bob
Osinski said he would climb up the peak with him at 7:00 A.M.We
all know how much Raúl is an early morning person!However,
Raúl kept saying he would do it.So,
Bob O. said that he would be in the lobby early waiting for Raúl.This
we will hear about tomorrow morning!
Bob
Yeats, Joan Alger, and I walked back together towards our cabins.We
stopped to look at the lake.It was
so peaceful and beautiful.Back at
our cabin, Joan and I laid on our beds in our front room with the lights
off with our woven grass blinds rolled up and watched a distant campfire
flickering across the lake on the far shore.We
shared stories and wished we could be here for a little bit longer time.
Afternoon
Scribe:John
Williams, Reilly Chair of Morbid Anatomy and Deranged Physiology
In
a trip filled with glaciers, magnificent wind-swept steppes and snow-covered
peaks as far as the eye can see, I put down my copy of Moby Dick and pick
up pen to start recording the minutes following our ferry ride over to
Tierra del Fuego.Ah, always the
wind!An occasional sighting of
animal life, every once in a while a glacial erratic.And
we had the pleasure of almost being incorporated into a massive herd of
sheep.And such low population density.Has
it occurred to anybody that we haven't heard an airplane since leaving
Rio Gallegos Airport?Is there anywhere
in continental US where one could spend a week without encountering air
traffic for several days?
Well,
yet another experience with mindless bureaucracy, this time in the form
of a border crossing back into Argentina.Lunch
at the Argentine Automobile Club followed by a talk by Leader Jim about
the mineral content of beach sand in this area.This
area has some phenomenal mineral wealth, almost untouched.
A
long nap on the bus.I'm relieved
that nobody had a pulmonary embolus.But
it was worth it--the night was spent in cabins at the edge of an alpine
lake--clearly one of the highlights of the trip.
This
is the third trip I've done with GSA and this rank amateur greatly appreciates
the specialized instruction that I get from you specialists in earth science.And
I continue to be impressed by the scholarly bunch who go on these trips.I
made a lot of good friends on this trip and hope to see you again.And
I hereby solemnly promise that you'll NEVER have to see those horrid green
corduroy pants EVER again (I quietly left them under a seat on the plane
as we departed following our flight to Ushuaia.
SATURDAY,
JANUARY 6, 2002:Lago
Escondido to Ushuaia
Morning
Scribe:Bob
Yates
After a beautiful evening, it rained during the night at Hostería
Petrel, and the day began gray and gloomy. However, there were stories
about going out and seeing the Southern Cross and Orion upside down before
the storm came in. As we waited to leave, we saw lambs being roasted for
cordero later in the day.
We headed back on RN 3 to Tolhuin and turned east on a side road to
Estancia Correntina, the home of Sr. Oliva. As Carlos Costa had
anticipated,
an eyewitness to the 1949 Tierra del Fuego earthquakes was still living
at the estancia. He is Sr. Jose Caibul, 79 years old, a short, slim man
who is still very active and who remembers the events of 1949, which he
observed on the old RN 3 along the lake north of present-day Hostería
Kaiken. He told us the story,and
Jim Reynolds and I translated. (His account is in the field guide; he had
also told the story to Carlos Costa.)
We walked in a drizzling rain over a ridge, which looks like
a pressure ridge to me, to the trench site on the banks of the Rio
San Pablo. The trench site was fully visible; obviously not filled
in according to OSHA standards in California, and the south-facing
scarp was still visible as well. After discussion of the geology,
Joan Baldwin led a short memorial to Dottie Stout. Several people
spoke about Dottie's life, and some of her ashes were spread at the
trench site. (This made quite an impression on Sr. Caibul.)
We walked back to the bus with Sr. Caibul. Sr. Oliva had
wanted to put on an asado for us, slaughtering and roasting a couple
of lambs. It would have been fun, but would have taken up the entire
day, so with the help of Angel, we excused ourselves from that
generous invitation.
Then
back to Tolhuin, according to Jim, the third largest
town in Tierra del Fuego after Rio Grande and Ushuaia. We took the
old RN 3 (Antigua Traza) to some cabanas and Hosterías along
the
shore of Lago Fagnano and drove south to a place where the ground had
subsided in 1949, drowning beech trees that were still standing ,
dead, in ponded water. The south-facing scarp was visible off to the
east. I showed the trench log (couldn't do it at the trench site due
to rain) and discussed the paleoseismology and the possible offset
fences.
We
then rode to Hostería Kaiken, where all got out and walked
the last 100 m across a rickety wooden bridge so the bus could make
the crossing sin pasajeros. Lunch at Hostería Kaiken was a big
spread with a view of the lake, but there was a downpour as we left
to return to the bus.
Afternoon
Scribe:
Peter Kresan
At
about 12:30 PM, we left the farm house at La Correntina after visiting
the Fagnano Fault trench site.Drove
back to Route 3 and then through the small town of Tolhuin to a road along
the east shore of Lago Fagnano.Snags
in a swampy area just east of the shoreline road are the relics of trees
killed in 1949 by the December 17 M7.8 earthquake during which the east
end of Lago Fagnano subsided, drowning trees.
After
photographing the relic drown forest and continued debate along the lake
shore about the geologic structure of Lago Fagnano, we proceeded to Hostería
Kaiken for lunch.
Hostería
Kaiken overlooks eastern Lago Fagnano. The hotel stays open for about 5
months of the year.The rest of the
year is too rainy, snowy and cold for tourists. Because of the recent economic
crisis in Argentina, this hotel and others we visited are for sale.We
enjoyed a hardy lunch of Milanesa Napoltana, salad, French fries, and fruit
cocktail.Monte presented a brief
lecture on a pull-apart model for Lago Fagnano. He even produced a paper
cutout dynamic model to illustrate. A
heavy rain forced us to run to the bus after lunch.
The
rain did not last very long and it sure helped to keep the dust down along
the road. As we headed south on Route 3 to Ushuaia, the rain had stopped
by the time the bus reached Paso Garibaldi, so we stopped for the view
and photos in the pass.Lago Escondido
and our lodging for the previous night were clearly visible.Lago
Fagnano could be seen at times in the distance. Mary and the Ericas struck
a dramatic pose at the overlook.
The
scenery on the south side of the pass was spectacular as we traversed the
Sierra Alvear to get to Ushuaia.Small
glaciers and snowfields dotted the peaks, which were mostly snow free despite
the storm.Timberline was about
half way up the peaks, which in this area reached 1490 meters in elevation.We
took one stop to check out a road cut of black, slaty shale and take photos
of the scene. The shale contained lens of pyrite, red-brown oxidizing pyrite,
and white quartz.Then it was on
the Automobile Club of Argentina Hotelin
Ushuaia.
We
spent the rest of the afternoon and early evening exploring Ushuaia, shopping,
partying or whatever. Dinner was a delicate white fish with potatoes, salad,
and ice cream for dessert.I do not
remember the name of the restaurant, but it was located a few blocks east
of our hotel.We climbed a spiral
staircase into the place and had a great view of the waterfront.
SUNDAY,
JANUARY 7, 2002:Estancia
Harberton
Morning
Scribe:George
Sharp
We
spent the night in Ushuaia at the Hotel Canal Beagle.The
hotel was nice and situated on the main drag alongside the Canal Beagle
in an older, interesting part of town.Some
of the group, including the Sharps, didn't sleep well since the rooms were
very warm.We ended up opening the
window to get fresh air, but since our room faced the busy street, we heard
drag races all night long.
I
got up early to do a dawn walk of the town.Ushuaia
has a population reported at about 35,000 and supports a naval base, some
industry and a relatively active tourist trade.The
town historically was tied to a prison, which operated from 1902 to 1947;
the prison is now inside the naval base and couldn't be seen in my early
wanderings.I did see a cruise ship
dock and dump a slug of tourists (Russians?) into buses and vans.
Our
breakfast started at 8:30 at the hotel and most of the gang turned out
for a buffet-style feed.The Argentines
do like their sweets, and dulce de leche was everywhere.We
picked out what we thought were small hamburgers, but they turned out to
be dulce de leche between two buns.There
were pinwheel rounds, medialunas, sweet breads, cakes and good, hot, strong
coffee, thank goodness.
We
all waddled onto the bus and left at 9:40 for Estancia Harberton.After
stopping at a grocery store for lunch supplies, and a YPF for directions,
we learned that the road we wanted was closed, so we backtracked to the
beginning and took another.This
road was in fair shape, and we followed the Canal Beagle up and down wind-swept,
barren hills for about two hours.There
wasn't a whole bunch to see along the way, so Danielle and Ross drove me
(and others?) crazy by learning Spanish words for parts of the body.They
wanted to sing "put your right foot in…"and
did.
We
reached Estancia Harberton at about noon.
This
is the oldest ranch in Argentine Tierra del Fuego and was founded by Reverend
Thomas Bridges in 1886.We entered
the tearoom, which was part of the original farmhouse, and had cake and
coffee.The group had choices of
touring the estancia for seven pesos, touring the museum (mostly marine/
whale exhibits), or driving to the end of the road.We
were part of a large group, which toured the estancia with the great grandson
of the original owner.
Monte,
as official PM Scribe, took copious notes and will describe details which
escaped my beady eyes.However, I
did pick up that fence posts were 1 meter apart, and every 10 meters, a
large post was set (some of the wood used only lasted 7 years, but the
prized cypress would last 120 years).Also,
wool was almost worthless since the price dropped from $3.50/kilo to $1.00/kilo.Supplies
in the old days only came by boat once a year (from Puerto Arenes or Buenos
Aries) and sometimes took 18 months.They
usually ordered up to 3 years worth of supplies, and that’s why there were
so many buildings for storage.
We
were told that Thomas's third son, E. Lloyd Bridges, wrote a highly popular
book The Uttermost Part of the Earth, which is now
out of print.The book is about
his experiences on the estancia while growing up among the natives.We
are presently enjoying a copy sent to us by Bob O.
All
in all a great informative day, and I keep wondering how this small band
of people could spend their lives in such a tough environment.
Afternoon
Scribe:Monte
Marshall
At
55 degrees South, 72 degrees West
Estancia
Harberton, 30 miles east of Ushuaia, on the north shore of the Beagle Canal,
only a few hundred miles from Antarctica!
As
our group gathered that morning in what was part of the century-old farmhouse,
the first house in this part of Tierra del Fuego, I was surprised at the
appearance of the owner, Mr. Bridges. He seemed too shy to be the descendant
of the hearty English missionary who was the first European to settle in
Tierra del Fuego and build this house at the end of the nineteenth century.
His more confident, American-born wife called him from another room and
asked if he would be willing to give us a tour of the estancia/ranch buildings.
Emerging from the dark room, he quietly said “yes” and proceeded to lead
half of our group up a grassy knoll above the house. At the top, overlooking
the buildings constructed so long ago along the shore of a small inlet
that led south to the Beagle Canal, we surrounded him as he told us about
his life.
Dressed
in baggy, khaki pants and shirt and old rubber fishing boots, he recalled
that his family had visited Scotland every three years, and that is where
he was born.He spent some of his
youth on the ranch and the rest in English boarding schools, and worked
in Tierra del Fuego for most of his life raising cattle and sheep. That
changed when the state built a road from Ushuaia to the estancia, providing
access to people who then stole some of the cattle.A
blizzard laid down 9 feet of snow causing two thirds of the remaining herd
to die of hunger, and then the price of wool dropped so low that he couldn’t
compete with the farmers in New Zealand. Now he is a gentleman farmer and
gives tours to groups like ours. While he recounted his life in this place
that even now is so isolated and desolate, I noticed that his shyness gave
way to the confidence and earthly wisdom of a man who had learned how to
survive, maintain this 60,000 acre ranch, and raise a family on this lonely,
wind-swept tip of the bottom of the world.
Passing
through a gate, he showed us his mother’s gravesite in the family graveyard
and then took us through the woods, past a tree with a 90 degree kink in
its over six inch-thick trunk. They had used this kind of bent tree trunk
to make the frames of the small boats used to row into town before the
road was opened. In the early days they raced the Argentine navy’s rowboats—the
family never lost! J
We hiked past replicas of the sapling tepees made by the now-extinct Indians
who had lived here. He pointed out the three different species of trees
native to the area. As at our other stops, they had leaves very different
from the trees in North America, and we were once more reminded that we
were walking in a Gondwanaland forest.
Returning
to the buildings, he took us into the shearing house and showed how the
sheep’s wool was stuffed and compressed into giant gunny sacks weighing
400 pounds each. From there we visited the boathouse and saw what was left
of the family fleet! J.
Our last stop, their garden, was one of my favorites. Here were flowers,
shrubs, spices, and trees that the family had gathered from many places
during their travels. Here were the smells and colors of any plant that
had the courage, like them, to survive the deep winter snows and the cold
winds that blow here even in their summer.
Later,
back in Ushuaia, we dined at Tenedor Libre, which offered a buffet, as
well as freshly-sliced meat brought to our individual tables.Before
turning in for the night, a few hardy souls in our group stayed up to see
the Sourthern Cross from the end of the world.
MONDAY,
JANUARY 8, 2002:Beagle
Canal Excersion
Scribes:Greg
and Sally
9:15
am – We boarded the “Ana B” catamaran a couple of blocks from Canal Beagle,
our hotel in Ushuaia.It was a nice
boat with large windows for optimal viewing.We
left the dock at 9:30 in a light rain but it quickly cleared up and was
dry but breezy.The boat took us
to a couple of sea lion haul-outs with numerous cormorants mixed in.Petrels
would fly by to entertain us on occasion.The
tour guide continued to emphasize that the white color on the rocks was
guano from the bird colonies.Many
of the cormorants were carrying pieces of kelp for making their nests.We
also saw a couple of old light houses. On
this trip we learned that “Ushuaia” means “Penetrating Bay” in the native
Indian language.
We
arrived back in Ushuaia at noon and walked to the hotel, then took the
bus to El Turco for a pizza lunch. Ham and cheese pizza was just what we
wanted after having ham and cheese for every breakfast since the start
of the trip!But nevertheless it
was tasty, and the beer helped wash it down.We
got back on the bus at 3:00 and drove to Tierra del Fuego National Park.Our
guide Pablo informed us of the surroundings.He
told us we were 150 km from Cape Horn and the land we saw across the Beagle
Canal was in Chile.We drove through
areas that were clear cut to support the prison that existed in Ushuaia
until 1947.We also passed a 9-hole
golf course, the southernmost golf course in the world!
We
made it to the park entrance at 3:20.Our
first stop in the park was Bahía Ensenada where we looked at light
green schistose rocks.There were
round sponge-like things on the beach that we finally discovered were fungi
called Indian Bread that grew in the trees overhead.We
later stopped at Roca Lake and walked along the beach to a cafeteria where
we had snacks and hot drinks.A young
man fly fishing at the lake outlet claimed there were trout up to 10 pounds
in the lake.
I
don’t know if it was because the trip was almost over, or if people were
just getting punchy, but Mary started telling jokes on the way back out
of the park.A sample follows (You
need to voice these to get the jist.):
What
do you call a deer with no eyes?
No
idea.
What
do you call a deer with no eyes and no legs?
Still
no idea.
What
do you call a deer with no eyes, no legs, and no penis?
Still
no f---in’ idea.
There
were more, but that’s about all I can put in print.
We
then stopped at Bahía Lapataia and hiked up and over a hill to the
water.A few of the folks who knew
Dottie Stout had a small ceremony and threw some of her ashes into the
bay.We explored a pink-tinted beach
that ended up to be entirely made up of mussel shells.Those
of us who took part in the port-a-potties were pleased to note that they
flushed!
On
the way back to Ushuaia we stopped to take photographs of a family of geese
and then some mountains highlighted in the sunshine.We
got back to the hotel at 7:45 and had a cocktail party to use up the remainder
of Don’s New Year’s Eve loot
TUESDAY,
JANUARY 9, 2002:Ushuaía
to Miami
Scribe:Jim
Reynolds
It
was a little hard for me to respond to the 6:30 call but a quick shower
helped me wake up.After gulping
breakfast, we left the hotel at 8:15 for the airport.As
is typical of Aerolineas Argentinas, no one was there when we arrived.We
paid $13 each as a departure tax and then discovered that our 9:40 flight
wasn’t leaving until 11:20.
The
previous night, John assured me that his green corduroy pants would never
make it north of Ushuaía.When
we got to the airport, Jack discovered he had left his red polar fleece
at the hotel.I told this to Angel,
and he went off to see if the hotel could send it out by taxi. This
was 25 minutes before departure.We
boarded the plane.The last two
people on were Angel and Raúl.They
had Jack’s fleece…and John’s pants!John
left his pants on the plane when we got to Aeroparque—on someone else’s
seat!
I
sat with Judy on the 3-hour flight to Buenos Aires.I
had some nice views of the Patagonian coast.All
of the bags made it, so we loaded them into the Manuel Tienda León
bus. We said good-bye to the Shropshires who were flying to Bariloche for
a couple of weeks. After piling onto the bus, we headed for the bus office
on Santa Fe.We met our city tour
guide and said farewell to Angel and Raúl who were flying back to
Salta at 5:00.They did a good job
for us.
Josephine,
our tour guide, took us on a pretty standard tour with brief walks at the
Rose Garden, the Recoleta Cemetery, and the Plaza de Mayo/National Cathedral.It
is amazing how few people are in the city in January.We
didn’t have time to visit La Boca, unfortunately.I
shot a lot of video, particularly at the cemetery.
We
drove to Ezeiza and got into line.Security
was impressively tight.As I suspected
it would, my free ticket caused problems, so it took me more than an hour
to get through.Barney, however,
ended up causing the biggest problem.When
his walking stick was x-rayed, it turned out to have a 2’ blade concealed
within the shaft.The stick had
been in his family for decades, but he had no idea it had a concealed weapon.They
made him check it as baggage. Once we were in a waiting room, a security
guard came up and started interrogating Barney and Ross.I
told the guy they had traveled with me for 2 weeks and were part of a group
of 32 on the flight. Barney, at 85, was the oldest member of the group
and the least likely to cause anyone any problem.The
security guy showed me the blade.It
was impressive, but covered with rust.It
had obviously not been used in a long time.He
told us that the security chief would soon be out.When
he came, we got him calmed down.He
did not want to check the stick through by itself.He
asked if someone had a bag big enough for the stick to fit into.I
offered mine, so he took my name and went off to see if it would fit.He
returned 20 minutes later to tell us it was now in my bag. He thanked me
for my help, and I thanked him for the efficiency of the security operation.
Our
flight was supposed to leave at 10:55, but minor mechanical problems delayed
our take-off until about 12:30.I
was starving.Fortunately dinner
was served quickly.I read some
and tried to watch a movie, but was soon fast asleep.
_____________________________________
Scribe:Ross
McCasland
For
those who didn’t hear of Barney’s cane incident, let me recap.We
took my dad’s cane with us upon my sister’s suggestion and carried it through
security in Midland, Miami, Buenos Aires, and Ushuaia airports without
incident.On the return trip at the
Buenos Aires International security gate, the X-ray technician spotted
something unusual in Barney’s things.I
immediately thought of his rocks, but they were interested in his cane.Unbeknownst
to us was a two foot long sword hidden inside the cane.
The
security team really gave my dad a time, but the head of security, a rational
sort, allowed Jim Reynolds to pack the cane-sword in his things.Barney
retrieved the cane in Miami and told me that he intended to walk it through
security again.“Oh no, not again!”
I thought.Well, after a little
more persuading and a search to find some long cardboard, I successfully
got that little nemesis checked in as a luggage item.It
was a good thing too, because you all will recall the careful searches
at security.Security checked several
of us for hoof and mouth nematodes and Barney (84 years old) had to remove
his boots for possible explosives.This
act I found humorous, even as it reminded me of the terror of the previous
months.
We
returned to Midland in great shape and I continued on to Lubbock.Well,
there was one exception that statement.Barney
checked his blood pressure after refusing to take his pills during the
entire trip, and it was well elevated into stroke range.Thanks
be to God.
THURSDAY,
JANUARY 10, 2002:Miami
to Brevard
Scribe:Jim
Reynolds
I
awoke about 5 am Miami time and had a decent in-flight breakfast.In
spite of our late departure, we arrived only 35 minutes late, around 6:15.I
gave Barney back his walking stick before customs.It
looked like everyone’s bags arrived.I
said good-bye to as many folks as I could, but our late arrival meant that
people dispersed quickly to get to their connecting flights.I
got to my Delta gate just as my row was boarding.I
nodded off a little at the beginning of the flight, but rallied when breakfast
was served.The 1 hour 20 minute
flight went fast.I had lunch at
Wendy’s in the Atlanta airport.
My
flight from Atlanta to Asheville left on time with a strong tail wind,
so we arrived an amazing 15 minutes early.I
didn’t realize this at first, so I was disappointed that Elise wasn’t there
to meet me.My bag came off quickly.
I called the house, but no one answered, so I started wondering if Elise
had left the car in the parking lot for me to pick up.I
left my bags with an airport employee and started walking the lot.After
10 minutes, I found it!I brought
it around to the arrivals area, but was bummed to see a sign saying that
unattended cars would be towed.Another
said immediate pick up and drop off only.I
stopped there, opened the back hatch and went into the airport.A
distant cop whistled at me as I went in, but I ignored him.As
I entered, there was Elise!We had
missed crossing paths by minutes due to my early arrival.I
grabbed my bags and dashed back to the car just before Cowboy Bob, the
rootin’-tootin’, bronco bustin’ parking lot cop got there and read me the
riot act.He was an idiot.My
mind reeled with sarcastic comments. I wanted to ask him how long ago he
had been promoted to parking lot duty but refrained, figuring he’d probably
throw me in jail if I exposed his ignorance.I
played meek and dumb to satisfy his need to be important. In two minutes
it was over, and we were on our way.
We
jabbered the whole way to Sylva.Elise
starts at Brevard tomorrow.She took
me to a tiny Sushi place that recently opened in town.We
got take-out, and then drove to the house and ate it.I
stayed until she had to go to work.I
called Edna Collis at GSA and gave her a synopsis of the trip.She
was delighted.I drove over to Brevard
via US 276.I ate dinner at Cielito
Lindo and was surprised to see how many students were back already.I
drove down to Jones and moved my baggage back in… Another good trip is
history.
Bob
Osinski's Observations:
Patagonia/Tierra
del Fuego - December 26, 2001 to January 10, 2002
What
a wonderful trip -- especially for someone like me, who always wanted to
be a bus driver. There were many days that I simply wished for longer days
riding in that marvelous bus! With my keen awareness of other’s feelings,
I knew that I was not alone. It’s a metaphysical certitude that Mel Cragin,
George Sharp, and John Williams were kindred spirits with me in this.
I
asked a heavily-bearded fellow traveler about “scribing” for a part of
a day, even an hour, but was told, “The list is closed, Bob.” I did not
want to be “left out,” so Danielle suggested that I contribute by offering
some general commentary.
In
extensive conversations with Danielle, I learned that several Patagonian
GeoTrip participants have been working long hours editing video footage
for distribution to the group. Although most of us would gladly contribute
financially to the distribution of “product(s),” an especially well-founded
rumor is that Monte has volunteered to underwrite any “extraordinary” costs.
Well “offered” Monte! We love you, man! However, in the event that this
rumor is incorrect, others may wish to contribute.
Also
if any in the group have a few special images and commentary, I would love
to see them --
Special
thanks to George for providing such tremendous guidance and support for
Danielle and Joan Baldwin in designing our treasured T-shirt and editing
our “notes.” Some of us who traveled with George on a previous Argentine
trip believe that the lack of “becoming lost” on this second trip is directly
attributed to George’s nightly meetings with Angel. I’m certainly thankful,
George, but next time -- more thought to consistency in the quality of
meals.
Overall,
at some time or another, everyone in our group made me smile. In part this
is a reflection of my own attitude/philosophy. I watched faces and listened
to public conversations, as we “encountered” each day’s events and activities.
Those of you who are over 70 really impressed me with your endurance. I
hope to do as well. In all experiences/conversations, I appreciated all
of you as my “teachers."
Joan
A
- Joan’s generous spirit was evidenced almost daily. I’m sure the time
she spent helping Peter with his photography was appreciated. Again on
this trip, Joan continually checked with many participants re: keeping
their passports secure. I believe that her ability to maintain such a pleasant
sense of humor was directly attributed to her encounters with the penguins
and chasing sheep. Now if I can only get her to share some of her photographs
with me.
Joan
B
- Special thanks for our T-shirts. Each time I looked at Joan reminded
me of the 2000 trip, seeing the love that flowed between her and Dottie
Stout. As Joan presided over the thoughtful fertilizing release of a part
of Dottie at numerous places along our course, I thought of how spending
only one trip with Dottie had affected me. I’m sure that Joan will
continue to spread the spirit of Dottie to other travelers, friends, and
acquaintances . . . with stories from past “Dottie Trips.”
Greg-
It was always a pleasure to see you smile, as it generated one from me.
I enjoyed watching your thoughtful exploration of the geology at our stops.
Conversations were always pleasant, whether over delicious luncheon pizza
or “fine” local wines at a late night “gathering.” For me listening to
your stories of life in Alaska renewed my determination to spend an extended
visit there. I was “bothered” by your more luxuriant growth of hair. Will
drinking Alaskan water help me?
Cristy
- Your personality, enthusiasm, and honest conversation reduced the length
of the bus rides. I looked forward to seeing a “fellow” geographer again
after our 21-day, Argentina 2000, trip. Also, listening to stories of your
previous trip to Ushuaia and Antarctica were interesting. Even more fascinating
were your future travel plans. I can only hope that your experiences will
be at least as stimulating as those of Argentina, 2001-2002. After your
purchases of “select” pieces of local jewelry, I offer my help in planning
a new wing on your house to display the entire Argentine collection.
Mel
- It seems you have found another career path, i.e., in professional video.
I will be disappointed if the short sequence illustrating the unique pattern
of penguin elimination etiquette, which you recorded and so artfully edited,
is not seen on The Discovery Channel within the year. In watching you “relate”
to fellow travelers with such genuine interest, I can see why you are so
loved by your staff and so “irritating” to your immediate supervisor at
Waste Central. Your plan to make this trip tax-deductible by recording
Patagonian waste disposal methods is great! Was that Mark’s idea?
Jack-
The first time I saw your face, I knew you. My only friend in Maryland
was a geologist educated in the Appalachians -- you are so much like him.
Your speech patterns, sense of humor, laugh, insightfulness, body form,
and demeanor are remarkably similar. The only radical difference was your
very measured approach to adult beverages. My friend Clare really likes
his beer. Any evening by a warm fire listening to your life story and experiences
with model railroading would be a pleasure . . . perhaps on another GSA
trip.
Jessie-
As your husband reminded me of my friend, Clare, you reminded me of Clare’s
wife, Joan, such a strong woman. I had a great time conversing with you
at a couple of dinners. My rare experience imbibing adult beverages was,
none-the-less, greatly enhanced by you suggesting that I try several pisco
sours. I still don’t recall the reasons you listed for the necessity
of having six of them. No doubt this is “local custom.” I will always treasure
the conversations in which we “argued” politics. Your sweater selections
were just marvelous.
Mary
D
- It is difficult to assess the impact that an errant microbe had on our
trip. All of us are aware of the “butterfly” effect in our chaotic weather/climate
systems. The group will never know “what could have been.” Losing your
voice for such a period deprived many of us your wit. The smile was there,
the twinkle in your eyes was obvious, but words were few. I was impressed
by your ability to communicate with Chris, despite the laryngitis. Before
the microbe (BM) I recall overhearing a discussion you were having with
some of our group, re: dealing with students. It seems that your institution
and students are fortunate to have you. What a pleasure sitting beside
you on our trip in the fjord aboard the “Gravitas,” sharing philosophies.
J.
Freeman
- I am normally a VERY positive person, but I just cannot think of anything
positive to say about you -- perhaps it was the alcohol, or maybe your
personality was just too obtuse or complex for me. It may be that your
background at MIT in geophysics and high intellect precluded awareness
of your wisdom. Whatever the case, there’s no doubt that I am at fault
here.
Sarah
- I just love your name, but again, I’m somewhat at a loss in remembering
you. I like to think I have somewhat of a photographic memory for female
faces, but your visage is really without expression in my psyche. Perhaps
we sat in different parts of the bus -- it was very large you know. In
any case, I’m sure you were beautiful, wise, witty, and elegant. Perhaps
that is why we never met.
Don
H
- One of my fellow "GeoTrippers" with whom I did not have a conversation,
but "noticed" as a result of the New Year's festivities. I had a great
time because you seemed to be having such a great time. I believe that
no one in our group would have reacted in such an entertaining way to winning
a basket of goodies. It seemed that there was something mystical (almost
Biblical) about your generosity in sharing "booty," which resulted in a
multiplication of food/wine/beer for more socializing and opportunities
for us to know one another. I also noticed that you rarely let anyone or
anything stop you - what an impressive style leaving the plane in Miami!
Great work, Don!
Peter
- What a guy! You remind me of my great major advisor in undergraduate
school -- only better. Watching your eyes as you perceived a photo opportunity
drew my attention, i.e., I tried to see what interested you -- I was not
disappointed. Several participants knew you from previous trips and mentioned
your passion and knowledge for photography. I listened as you shared some
of your expertise with others. Thank-you for the references you sent me
to strengthen my teaching. I look forward to seeing your still images and
video, preferably in the company of Jack D.
Dale-
I can’t believe you still had apricots left from our trip in 2000! You’ve
convinced me that laser surgery is worth my consideration. As on the 2000
trip, I thoroughly enjoyed your sense of humor, positive attitude, and
intellectual insight. I’m sure that everyone appreciated your efforts helping
so much with the numerous transfers of luggage. I can remember how happy
I was when Mel told me you and Grace were going on this trip -- no disappointment.
Grace
- I continued my observation of your “walk” on this trip -- one of the
very best I’ve observed. Unfortunately, I was unable to observe your shopping
prowess. Unlike the 2000 trip when many shopping opportunities occurred
with small local artisans, the more urban setting on this trip provided
more “cover.” Is it possible that after so much success in 2000, that Dale
kept your successes “private?” I can still “see” you and Dale strolling
along the streets of Ushuaia.
Monte
- Your smile, enthusiasm, obvious passion for teaching, and generosity
were at times “dominating.” When engaged in conversation, enjoying the
moment, the meal, the adult beverage -- I felt your spirit. I know your
passion for life is sometimes misunderstood by others as bordering on obnoxious,
but keep up the good work. To know you is to love you, especially sharing
“extra” pisco aboard one of our scenic boat trips. I recalled meeting
you on another trip along the Snake River and benefited from your wisdom
in explaining that which we observed. I heard rave reviews of your efforts
as emcee on the final evening. Such talent . . . “on loan from God.” --
as Rush Limbaugh would say.
Barney
- You were so very kind to spend some time with me . . . telling me about
a few of your vast experiences in the oil industry. Your genuine interest
in wanting to meet everyone, find out something about each of us taught
me something. I tend to be more “closed” on trips, but am learning. While
handling the rigors of long days with strength, your very gentle spirit
was apparent. Wish that I were closer to Texas and the opportunity to learn
more from you. Your family is fortunate to have you.
Ross
- You are a “tour de force,” virtually a genius in fitting suitcases into
buses. Between you and Dale - wow! You were incredibly kind, efficient,
helpful, and supportive to all of us, acknowledged or not. Whether facing
the challenge of another packing/unpacking “adventure,” helping in serving
meals, collecting tips, or giving special, loving attention to your dad
-- You Were the Best! It seems to me that you are a great son and a very
effective teacher. I never did find out what you like most like to cook,
but I’m sure I would love to taste it.
Chris
- I was envious of the hair. Listening to some of your educational philosophy
was “illuminating.” Of even greater interest was our group conversation
about the “fairer sex.” I hope I learned some things that will help me
be more successful. This made the long bus ride even more entertaining;
although, rumor has it that not everyone in adjoining seats was as appreciative.
I respected your honest comments, especially concerning the importance
of being sensitive to others. One of my most enjoyable afternoons was spent
imbibing adult beverages and sharing observations about life with you aboard
the vessel “Gravitas” on our trip to see glaciers.
Mark
- The heavily-bearded one offered many of us great levity. Although you
live only three hours and fifteen minutes from me, the most time we’ve
spent together since our meeting in 1986, was on this trip. You are one
of those people with whom I could spend eternity. Our many walks, conversations,
and meals together will be cherished until . . . Your generosity (bordering
on the philanthropic) in supporting so many local businesses selling adult
beverages almost brought tears to my eyes. I’m sure your sensitivity to
the monetary crisis in Argentina was foremost in your mind.
Ruth
- You are such a beautiful person. As with your “hubby” - Mark John, we
are geographically so close, but . . . I loved your sense of humor, enthusiasm,
and pleasant conversation in the “back of the bus.” Also, no one was quite
as sharing of their chocolate. It was such “silliness,” i.e., taking pictures
of the “bear,” but just the type of thoughtfulness for family that characterizes
you. It was wonderful being with you as you embark on the second half of
your life.
Erica
the Minor
- one of the next generation of geologists. As you expressed “Love geology!
. . .I’m desperately passionate . . . many of us witnessed that ingredient
in your activities on our trip. Seeing you hike along the trail, involved
in discussions, and pursuing knowledge of Earth was exciting for me. It
would be great to have students with your enthusiasm in my classes. Personally,
one of your most enjoyable traits was your acerbic sense of humor.
Erica
the Major
- another of the next generation of geologists. It’s still hard to believe
that the two Erica’s are identical twins -- at least that’s what Mark told
me. I was fortunate to have been able to chat with you at length on our
flight to Río Gallegos. Finding a kindred spirit despite the generation
difference was pleasant. Your dedication to mental and physical fitness
is relatively rare today. One of my most enjoyable afternoons was our view
from a hilltop near Torres del Paine -- amazing how the temperature changed.
Jim-
This was my second Argentinean trip with you. Words are inadequate to express
my gratitude to you for making these experiences possible. I know that
I have seen landscapes that relatively few people, much less geologists
have viewed. As a geographer, sampling the food, drink, people, and other
cultural attributes makes my teaching more “real.” Discussions at dinners,
comparing “notes” on life’s experiences helped me gain perspective. Good
fortune in future travels.
Sally
- another generation of geologists, older than the Erica’s, younger than
mine. I noted that you are pursuing an MBA -- related to the business aspect
of geology? You are one of the four reasons I’d like to visit, perhaps
live in Alaska -- the “four” corresponding to the AK contingent on this
trip. You are such a nice person. I will always remember the meals together,
judicious amounts of adult beverages, especially over pizza, and a wonderful
sense of humor. Seeing the excitement in your eyes as you talk about Alaska
is reason enough for me making a trip there.
George
- my third trip with you and here’s hoping for several decades of future
trips. I’m sure you will find much to do in “retirement.” As on previous
trips I selfishly took so much of your time, but the benefits to me are
so great. You continue to amaze me with your powers of observation, analytical
abilities, and keen sense of humor. You are among the several people on
this trip with whom I would sail around the world.
Danielle
- You are truly a rare lady. Many thanks for taking the time to edit the
“Scribe Notes” for this trip. The many meals we shared were rich in conversation
about family, personalities, and past travels. Shopping with you and George
was an experience. Without your continuing mastery of the language, both
shopping and some of our lunches would not have been as pleasant. The “control”
you exercise over people with the “look” continues to impress.As
with George I look forward to your company on many more trips.
Lee
- Although having only a brief personal conversation with you, I none-the-less
enjoyed your company. What I remember most was your sense of humor. I appreciated
your frequent amusing comments and observations. You were another of those
very pleasant personalities that make a long day shorter.I
hope your sore knee didn't give you too many problems as you continued
on your extended journey after leaving us in Buenos Aires.
Carol
- As with your husband I only remember very limited discussion; you offered
some very wise comments in a group discussion on one of those infamous
bus rides.Some of the words that
come to mind as I reflect on seeing you are competent, focused, and “funny.”It
was a relief to all of us to know that you are a nurse, especially for
your husband after his unfortunate fall.We're
all anxious to hear about the remainder of your trip in South America.
Don
T
- You were VERY intellectually stimulating - - geologically and philosophically.
Your probing questions and statements made me “think.” Your concern for
elevating achievement and value to the university over politics in naming
a building made me think of a couple of issues at my college. Your reasoning
and spirit has led me to “tackle” these issues with determination. Many
thanks for the inspiration.
Julia
- How terrific it must be for the professionals in the Institute to know
that if a source is needed, you will procure it. The “light” in your eyes
reveals such a zest for performing in every aspect of life. You and Don
are two of the four reasons I want to visit Alaska. On the last evening
I took a photograph of you as Peter poured you an adult beverage. The “light”
is there.
Mary
Emma -
I wish I had spent more time asking you questions about your career. One
of my joys is listening to successful professional people for use as examples
in my classes. Your major in physics is relatively rare. Perhaps you will
be so kind as to send me your story. One of my favorite sections of Investor’s
Business Daily is the profile of successful people. I often reference these
in class. It is so much better to have actually met someone and learned
their story. My uncle used to regularly visit Malvern for religious retreats.
I missed asking about Catholic facilities there.
Gary
- You were so nice to help me understand the geology observed at the road
cut where we found numerous fossils. Every time I heard your laughter on
the trip, I could only wish I had been a student of yours. The “twinkle”
in your eyes reminded me of a blend of Santa Claus and the “Devil,” --
a mostly benign devil of course. I noted that you like to fish. One of
these years George is going to plan a fishing trip.Should
this event occur would you be interested?
Beverly
- I captured your lovely face in a photograph on the last night in Ushuaia.
I’m smiling now as I look at this photograph and recall numerous very short,
but “dense” comments you made to me. The comments reminded me of many that
my very wise mother made to me. The only other “images” I have of you are
memories of you and Gary walking the streets. Doesn’t he have such a long
stride?
John
- This is my second trip with you; you were another Snake River companion.
Other than your keen intellect and eclectic interests, I most appreciate
your jokes. As I recall you had the most expressive characterization of
our longish bus rides. My spelling checker did not recognize the main word,
so I left it “out.” I would love to read one of your books one day, and
then discuss your ideas over several adult beverages.
Robert
Y.-
How could someone named “Robert” not be a man of intelligence and character?
Your presence on the trip, providing geologic expertise, was a pleasant
surprise. In addition to learning numerous things about the geology of
our travel area, I most enjoyed our conversation in the terminal at Ushuaia.
George had told me how impressed he was with your expertise on earthquakes.
The perspective and some history of your work will be a part of my comments
to students in years to come. Thank-you.
GLACIAL
GEOLOGY RESOURCE GUIDE
Definitions
of glacial geology terms according to the American Geological Institute’s
Glossary
of Geology (1987, Third Edition by Bates and Johnson) are provided
here primarily for those of us who can’t remember what these terms
actually mean since we took Geology 101 so long ago!
drumlin
- A low, smoothly rounded, elongate oval hill, mound, or ridge composed
of compact glacial till, or less commonly, other kinds of drift (sandy
till, varved clay), built under the margin of the ice and shaped by its
flow, or carved out of an older moraine by readvancing ice.Its
longer axis is parallel to the direction of movement of ice.It
usually has a blunt nose pointing in the direction from which the ice approached,
and a gentler slope tapering in the other direction.Height
is 8-60 meters, average 30 meters.Length
is 4000-2000 meters, average 1,500 meters.
esker
- A long, narrow, sinuous, steep-sided ridge composed of irregularly stratified
sand and gravel that was deposited by a subglacial or englacial stream
flowing between ice walls or in an ice tunnel of a stagnant or retreating
glacier, and it was left behind when the ice melted.It
may be branching and is often discontinuous, and its course is usually
at a high angle to the edge of the glacier. Eskers
range in length from less than 100 meters to more than 500 kilometers (if
gaps are included), and in height from 3 meters to more than 200 meters.
kame
- A low mound, knob, hummock or short irregular ridge, composed of stratified
sand and gravel deposited by a subglacial stream as a fan or delta at the
margin of a melting glacier.
kame
terrace - A terrace-like
ridge consisting of stratified sand and gravel formed as a glaciofluvial
(glacial stream) or glaciolacustrine (glacial lake) deposit between a melting
glacier or a stagnant ice lobe and a higher valley wall or lateral moraine.
The kame terrace is left standing after the disappearance of the ice.A
kame terrace terminates a short distance down stream from the terminal
moraine.
kettle
- A steep-sided, usually basin- or bowl- shaped hole or depression, commonly
without surface drainage, in glacial drift deposits (especially outwash
and kame fields), often containing a lake or a swamp.Formed
by the melting of a large, detached block of stagnant ice (left behind
by a retreating glacier) that has been wholly or partly buried in the glacial
drift.Kettles range in depth from
about a meter to tens of meters, and in diameter to as much as 13 meters.Thoreau’s
Walden Pond is an example.
kettle
lake
- A body of water occupying a kettle, as in a pitted outwash plain or in
a kettle moraine.
lateral
moraine
- A low ridge-like moraine carried on, or deposited at or near the side
margin of a mountain glacier.It
is composed chiefly of rock fragments loosened from the valley walls either
by glacial abrasion or plucking, or by falling into the ice from bordering
slopes.A lateral moraine can also
be and end moraine built along the side margin of a glacial lobe occupying
a valley.
terminal
moraine
- The end moraine, extending across a glacial valley as an arcuate or crescentic
ridge that marks the farthest advance or maximum extent of a glacier.The
outermost end moraine of a glacier or ice sheet.
Note:To
learn more, go to the Montana State University at Bozeman Glaciers and
Glacial Geology web page at <http://gemini.oscs.montana.edu/~geol445/hyperglac/index.htm>.This
is an excellent place to learn all about glaciers and how they work.The
overview section called Glaciers 101 is very informative.
Another
resource is the University of Cincinnati Glacial Geology web site at <http://tvl1.geo.uc.edu/ice/Glacier.html>.This
web site has cool photos of all sorts of glacial geology features around
the world.
Where
Will GSA Patagonia Participants Be in 2005?
Contributed
by Mel Cragin
Dale
Kunitomi – Owns
and operates the “Señor Dale Kunitomi Tango Club” in Buenos Aires,
a hot spot for oil and gas consultants and sheepherders.The
Club is famous for serving dried apricots.
Grace
Kunitomi
– Is now traveling only to places with warm temperatures and has opened
up another franchise of “Shorts By Grace” in Ushuaia (others are in Denpasar,
Indonesia and in Shanghai, China) featuring an exclusive line of Merino
wool shorts for Glacier Excursions along with her world-famous sheepskin
upholstered furniture.
Christy
Brenner
– Is the happy owner of “Bromeliads Are Us” with new stores opening up
in El Calafate, Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas.Look
for one in your neighborhood coming soon!
Carol
Shropshire
– Runs the “Hostería Shropshire”, a Ski Lodge and Summer Campground,
in Bariloche, Argentina with Lee.It
is located on a lake and the lodge is complete with an Internet Café
and Jacuzzi Hot Tubs in every room.
Lee
Shropshire
– Runs the Hostería Shropshire in Bariloche, Argentina with Carol.He
also leads Geology Hikes and continues to teach First Aid for knees.
Jack
Donahue
– Has moved into semi-retirement as Patagonia’s number-one Male Sweater
Model and has been seen in photos spreads featured in Model Railroading
and GQ.He continues to reside
with Jessie near Bahía San Sebastián.
Jessie
Donahue
– Manages the “Donahue Estancia and Dude Ranch” near Bahía San Sebastián
where they are famous for their “Rhea Roundup Days” and for throwing the
Best “Pisco Happy Hours” starting at 6:00 pm to 10:00 pm every night before
dinner.
Monte
Marshall
– Has started the privately funded Monte Marshall University in Ushuaia
where he teaches Geology and Etymology whenever he wants.The
University has only male waiters in the cafeterias, which serves dishes
featuring Guanaco and rhea.
Bob
Yeats
– Is a visiting professor at Monte Marshall University for the Fall and
Spring Semesters.Bob is hosting
a Scotia Plate Symposium and wine tasting event during Summer 2005.He
will be available to autograph special edition trench logs.
Julia
Triplehorn
– Has been reunited with her long-lost relatives in Oxnard, CA and now
shares her time as the Summer Director of the Austral Geological and Seismology
Center at Lake Fagnano. She is often asked to be a guest speaker at Monte
Marshall University.
Don
Triplehorn
– Owns the number one satellite phone company in the world, which features
the extremely popular “Don Trip Wristwatch Model”.He
continues to teach at University of Alaska, Fairbanks during the winter
and runs a summer field camp along the South American and Scotia Plate
Boundary near Lago Fagnano.
Greg
Bernaski –
Is the Principal Spokesperson for REI Adventure Wear Clothing in South
America.Greg, an Adventure Guide
in Torres del Paine National Park, gives geology lectures and tests various
REI clothing lines designed for climbing the Cerros, shooting the rapids
and waterfalls, and for sampling the local Austral beer at the various
lodges throughout the park.
Sally
Rothwell
– Is the Director of the Environmental Affairs Department for the Chilean
National Oil and Gas Company located in Puerto Natales, Chile. On weekends,
Sally works part-time with Greg as a Geology Adventure Guide in Torres
del Paine National Park and assists Greg with the necessary sampling of
the local Austral beer.
Joan
Alger
– Has opened her 34th worldwide “Party Girl Palace” franchise
in Costa Rica.The original “Party
Girl Palace” in El Calafate continues to be her best club, often frequented
by the Erics, Mary Dowse, Don Hagen and Chris Metzler.
Erica
“Little Erica” Palson
– Is traveling around the world trying out various geology jobs, but comes
back every New Year to El Calafate to learn more party techniques from
the infamous “Party Girl”, Joan Alger.
Erica
“Tall Erica” Peterson
– Owns her own Engineering Geology Consulting Firm in St. Paul, Minnesota.Erica
also has a satellite office in Rio Verde, Chile that specializes in the
slope stability of estancia buildings located on top of drumlins, kames
and moraines. Erica’s firm is famous for their trench logs.
Don
Hagen
– Continues his New Year’s Celebration from 2002.Don
enjoys his semi-retirement by teaching tango lessons and party cheerleading
around the world. Don has been sighted still carrying that famous gift
basket from party to party.He has
been known to frequent the “Party Girl Palace” in El Calafate commemorating,
“Where it all began”.
Mark
Nicolich
– Is the 15th new Presidente of Argentina.He
was the 8th new Presidente during the summer of 2002, but was
ousted when he named Bob Osinski as his Minister of Pisco.Presidente
Nicolich came back in the favor of the populous in 2003 when he
decreed that dried cheese sandwiches would be banished forever from Patagonia.Presidente
Nicolich was elected by an unprecedented 98% voter turnout.
Ruth
Nicolich
– Is the First Lady of Argentina and continues to be the mother of Raúl,
Argentina’s National Treasure.
John
Williams
– Has come back to Patagonia every year to ride the bus and to read his
books.John’s cutting edge research
on the nutritional merits and pathology of the ubiquitous Patagonia cheese
sandwich has led to his appointment as “Chief Medical Consultant” for Argentina
by Presidente Nicolich.
Danielle
Sharp
– Is a world-renown computer Scribe Book publisher.She
has published 50 scribe books to date in both English and Castellano and
is ready to take on any new project.She
also troubleshoots computer problems and hosts an on-line chat room where
she can solve any computer problem you may be experiencing.
George
Sharp
– Has come out of retirement to be Presidente Nicolich’s “Heat Minister.”George
is so hot, he has been assigned to bring back the “Fuego” in Tierra del
Fuego.He has been seen setting the
Pampas on fire by just standing still.Glaciers
are receding and lake levels throughout the region are dramatically rising
since George has taken on his new role.
Bob
Osinski
– Is the owner of Osinski’s Asado BBQ and Penguineria in Rio Gallegos.His
signature dish is called “Silence of the Lambs” and the dress code is “tuxedo
required.”After his very brief (2
hours) service as Argentina’s “Minister of Pisco” in 2002, Bob O. received
a new appointment in the new Nicolich administration in 2003 as the “Minster
of Sheepherding.” It is rumored that the sheep continue to be nervous.
Mary
Emma Wagner
– Answered Presidente Nicolich’s appeal in 2003 to become Argentina’s new
“Minister of Pisco”.The Argentina
citizens embraced Mary Emma’s appointment when she zestfully took on the
challenge to diligently sample this “Nectar of the Pampas” served at various
venues such as “Senor Dale Kunitomi’s Tango Club”, the “Donahue Estancia”
and “the Monte Marshall University” to ensure that the highest standards
of quality and quantity are met.She
continues this tradition in 2005.
Gary
Webster
– Is preparing for the Grand Opening of Patagonia’s first geology adventure
park at Punta Delgada called “Crinoid World.” Located along the scenic
northern shore of the Straits of Magellan, it will be an educational haven
where audio-animatronics crinoid forests can wave underwater in the Straits
and also in the Patagonian wind.
Bev
Webster
– Is on a worldwide book signing tour promoting her number-one best seller,
“Guanacos, The Bus, My Pinkie and Tea,”
a comprehensive compendium on the proper etiquette of drinking tea while
viewing guanacos from a moving tour bus traversing the Pampas.She
is scheduled to be at “Party Girl Palace” on New Year’s Eve, the “Donahue
Estancia” in mid-January, Monte Marshall University in late January, “Hostería
Shropshire” in early February, “Senor Dale Kunitomi’s Tango Club” on Valentine’s
Day, and ending with a visit to the Presidential Palace for a command book
signing for Presidente Nicolich and First Lady Ruth.
Chris
Metzler
– Is a National Geographic correspondent who has hosted television shows
highlighting Magellanic Penguins, Stylolites and Fossils, and Coastal Processes.
Chris is currently working on a Special Assignment Project called, “Teaching
Geology in Southern California Community Colleges,” but comes back to Patagonia
when he can to hang out with the gang at Joan Alger’s “Party Girl Palace.”
Mary
Dowse
– Can be seen performing live stand-up comedy nightly on the premier “Geology
and Glaciers” cruise ships that ply the waters of Lago Argentina, Lago
Fagnano and the Beagle Channel.Mary’s
live routine covers icebergs, laryngitis, and the perils of Patagonian
cheese sandwiches.
Barney
McCasland
– Still goes to his office every day in Midland to check on potential geology
adventures.Barney also now owns
an airport security guard company called “The Caine Scrutiny” in Buenos
Aires that screens boarding passengers carrying potential concealed surprises.
Ross
McCasland
– Takes his Boy Scout troop to Torres del Paine every summer for their
Glacier Geology Merit Badge.They
later travel to the “Donahue Estancia” to earn their Gaucho Merit Badge,
and then finish up at “Hostería Shropshire” to earn their Skiing
and First Aid merit badges.
Joan
Baldwin
– Is an active member of an artist colony along Lago Fagnano.Joan
B. owns a graphics arts company that specializes in Geology Field Trip
T-shirts.Her largest clients are
the Monte Marshall University in Ushuaia and the Lubbock, Texas Boy Scouts.
Peter
Kresan
– Has been appointed by Presidente Nicolich as the “National Photographer
of Argentina.”Peter has been assigned
to closely follow Presidente Nicolich to photograph his every move. The
most spectacular photos are Peter’s close-ups of the Presidente after his
23rd toast of Pisco at the “Party Girl Palace” in El Calafate
on New Years Eve 2004.
Freeman
Gilbert –
Continues to travel stealthily across the Pampas and Glaciers of Patagonia.It
is rumored that James has been sighted at the ready-to-open Crinoid World
and on the “Geology and Glaciers” Cruise Ship on Lago Argentina. He loves
to eat at the infamous Osinski’s Asador BBQ and Penguineria.
Sara
Gilbert
– Is rumored to also be traveling through Patagonia.Sara
has stopped in at “Shorts By Grace” in Ushuaia and at “Bromeliads Are Us”
in Punta Arenas according to local sources in the area.Sara
is signed up for Don Triplehorn’s 2005 Summer Field Camp at Lago Fagnano.
Raúl
Mansilla
– Is still napping at the back of the bus.When
he is awake, Raúl owns and manages the hottest disco in Ushuaia.It
is always packed with students from Monte Marshall University. The Matte
Bar gets two thumbs up.Don Hagen
sightings have been reported at this locale.
Angel
Mansilla
– Is still leading tours to Patagonia.The
expanded winery tours are a big hit.People
who have taken these tours claim to see more condors, rheas, guanacos,
pink penguins and Yeti.Angel now
also has a special “Viento Patagonia” Tour in which all participants ride
on top of the bus the entire time across the Pampas.
Mel
Cragin
– Is undergoing surgery to remove the on-going recording video camera that
has fused to her right hand and left eye.When
asked what she will do once the surgery is complete, Mel announced that
she would still be reviewing the 17 hours of videotape shot during the
2001-2002 GSA trip to Patagonia.
Jim
Reynolds
– Has struck gold and now owns Patagonia.He
lets Presidente Nicolich think he was voted in.Jim
still dabbles in magnetostratigraphy by day and performs tango on special
occasions at “Senor Dale Kunitomi’s Tango Club” by night.
¥¥¥