FOLLOWING DARWIN IN PATAGONIA

A GROUP JOURNAL

WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 26, 2001:Miami to Buenos Aires

Scribe:Danielle Sharp

It looked like it was going to be a reality.After the past several weeks of agonizing over the economic collapse of Argentina and our safety in such a volatile situation, we were at the Miami airport and ready to fly to Buenos Aires, Argentina.All of my reading about Darwin and the history and culture of Argentina, as well as studying my Spanish was going to pay off, at least the reading.My Spanish was still a little shaky.

Most of our group members met each other at our gate while waiting for our departure.Some of us had met on our previous trip in July of 2000, but there were many new introductions to be made since our group was quite large this time.Our leader, Jim Reynolds, handed out our much-needed nametags, but they were in Spanish.How were we ever going to remember that a long Spanish name, not even close to resembling the English version, meant Sally in English? So many names and faces to remember!

Our flight was delayed about one-half hour, but we soon made our eight-hour journey to Buenos Aires.We were served both dinner and breakfast and slept restlessly in between.

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 27, 2001:Log starts at midnight-Miami to Buenos Aires

Scribe:Ross McCasland

It was after midnight when we finished supper on our American Airlines jumbo jet.I had the chicken and others around me had steak.The bite of fillet I tried tasted like chicken. Since this was my first time across the equator, I stayed awake until the flight monitor indicated that we had crossed.Now after a few hours of shut eye …and swollen feet, we woke to bright sunshine in the southeast.My first view out the window to the east began with thick clouds and occasional breaks allowing a view of the verdant green rainforest below.Soon we were following the valley of an enormous meandering river – the Rio Paraná, I think.Lots of lakes.

Breakfast on the plane was a foretaste of future South American breakfasts, this one consisting of a wet sandwich with ham.It was hard to work up an appetite.

Buenos Aires finally came into view.It is situated on an enormous estuary.It's on the southern side in Argentina, and north across the muddy water, we could see the coast of Uruguay.One of our tour guides said it is several hours to the nice beaches.Jim Reynolds told us that an interesting trip is a ferry ride over to Montevideo.The land is fertile here based on the amount of land under cultivation.It is called the Pampas.To the south is Patagonia, our destination, a much drier and windier part of Argentina.Many of the farms appear prosperous and a subdivision we flew over seems to have as many swimming pools as parts of Dallas, Texas.But the day was one of stark contrast, as we began to see the troubles in Argentina caused by the monetary crisis and pockets of poverty.

Customs was a breeze.I wondered if Don Triplehorn, from Fairbanks, had declared his intergalactic cellular telephone.At least they didn’t take it away from him.Well, we were tourists and they needed our U.S. dollars.The humidity greeted us warmly when we walked out to the bus.I was secretly amused looking at my dad with his two coats and a vest. He assured me that The Philippines was much hotter.The trip downtown took 30 minutes on freeway and tollway.The trip took us by many barrios and government “project” style housing complexes.Jim told me it is much worse in other places, although I saw none. 

Many Argentine motorists were enjoying the warm afternoon, parking in the middle of the medians and beside the freeway on the greenbelts.

The downtown area is a mix of old and new.The Hotel Bristol where we checked in is on Ave. 9 de Julio, which runs north to south.I was disoriented because your shadow falls on your south side.The extremely wide boulevard has an obelisk like our Washington monument and is the gathering place for all demonstrations peaceful and violent.In the unrest only a few days earlier, a number of people had died in protests against the government.Graffiti and broken glass reflected anger at the IMF and the government.

We had time to unload in our nice, but stuffy, rooms before heading off to a five-course meal at La Estancia Restaurant.This was a wonderful time of getting acquainted.I could tell the group was melding well.The two Ericas joined up with the rest of us here, I think.Everyone started learning phrases like, vino tinto o blanco, agua con gas o sin gas, and café solo o con leche.

After lunch, Dad and I had fun looking for the Correo Argentina, or post office.($1.25 postage to the U.S).I began polishing rusty Spanish.Lots of fun.Lots ofpeople.The population is strongly Italian with many of Spanish descent, and most look very European.Many had blue or green eyes.The girls are pretty and dress to be noticed. The movie theaters were showing Harry Potter. The tropical humidity began to melt us and, later on, an afternoon shower washed us off during more shopping.Finally, we returned to the hotel to clean up for the Tango club – Carlos Gardel.

While waiting on the group to assemble, we sat around and looked at the geologic map of Argentina. (I’d like a copy of the Patagonia portion of that map, if possible).Out the window in the streets, a large noisy crowd began to assemble around 8 P.M.As it turned out, the crowd was celebrating a soccer victory and was happy.In fact, they were still celebrating well past one o’clock the next morning.Only a few days later, the third of eventually five total leaders of Argentina resigned amidst protests in front of our hotel again.We were lucky to miss all that.

Back to the Tango club.Excellent food.Excellent music and dance.The music consisted of a pianist, two accordions, two violinists (the lead was a young provocatively dressed woman), a cellist and a percussionist.Three different soloists sang and five dance couples.Tango is a national treasure and not only reflects the sensual side of life, but the tragic.The dances each seemed to tell a story.A wonderful evening was had by all.

…but of course there's always another point of view.

SCRIBE:Mark Nicolich--AA Flight 0909--Miami to Buenos Aires

We wake up about 1.5 hours outside of Buenos Aires, in the airplane.What excitement!Many of the group have gathered along the passageway to wait for the facilities – it’s been a long flight.We smile and nod and think about the upcoming adventure.Maybe it’s the rhythmic nodding, but almost in unison the group breaks out into the heart-inspiring song “Oh Patagonia, Land of Adventure” that Mel has written especially for our trip.It is very heart warming.After the first verse and chorus, many of the other passengers pick-up on the lyrics and join in.Joan A., as only Joan A. can do, speaks to the flight attendant, who speaks to the flight Capitan, who agrees to turn on the intercom so the whole plane can hear not only the group singing our hearts out, but also the flight crew (including the flight deck participants), and many of the other passengers.There were very few dry eyes for that time.A sign of the fellowship that was to follow.

After we calmed down and the attendants composed themselves, breakfast is served – an omelet with fresh asparagus, Roquefort cheese, and a dollop of caviar, an individual brioche, and a latte.It did make the discomfort of the trip a bit more bearable.I passed on having the complementary champagne so as not to dull my senses for the excitement ahead.

An uneventful landing, passport check and customs.There was a bit of humming of Mel’s song of welcome among the folks in queue.It was infectious and I enjoyed seeing the normally stern customs agents pick up the beat, almost without knowing it (shades of The Full Monty, the film not our Monte).We gathered our belongings and ourselves in the terminal and waited for the group to assemble then ventured outside.My, outside it is quite warm.The latitude is similar to Charleston, SC and the season would be the end of June.It is humid too.Don, with his sharp eyes and decisive manner, sees the bus that is to transport us on our adventures.Many of us marvel at his heightened perceptions and his calming demeanor – qualities that we would later need in out adventures.

We all pile into a bus.On the bus we meet up with Angel – our local guide and an old time friend of many.He has brought along his son, Raúl – a hardy fellow who was to prove a great boon to our adventures – but more of that to come.We have a rousing welcome and immediately and spontaneously burst into several lusty choruses of “It’s So Exciting to See You Again on the Bus, Old Friend!”Despite the high humidity there were many a damp eye as the echo of the voices died away.

The bus takes a quick 45-minute jaunt to the center of town.Ross has cleverly thought to bring a supply of cooling refreshments for us.So, on the journey our thirst is slaked with delightful blend of cantaloupe, papaya, and a melange of citrus fruits – all besprinkled with a dusting of cardamom and nutmeg.Quite refreshing.We arrive at the famed Hotel Bristol, 100 m from the Obelisk on the Avenue of July 9th.The street is one of the widest in the world - wider than Champes Elysees."It takes two traffic light cycles to cross the street.”It is really a wide street with several [check how many] grassy dividers.The Hotel is 4 (count them) stars!The towels aren't monogrammed; they have the name and logo of the hotel cut into the plush of the towel (Is there a name for this process or technique? - I'm sure there is.).As we arrive the hotel staff is at the bus to meet us and offer a relatively quick rendition of the four choruses of “Famed Bristol Hotel Song of Welcome.”We get our room assignments and have about 1 hour before lunch assembly at noon.We planned to unpack and rest.

Well, we got to the room and were nearly bowled over!The size of the room!Like a bowling alley (no just 1 lane, but the whole thing).Incredible!We’re not sure where to unpack our things.I decided to draw a map, like a treasure map, to know where my things and Ruth’s things were. To be sure it was done correctly, I borrowed the Triplehorn’s GPS and made an accurate map, to the nearest 1.0 meter, of what was packed where [The map is available on request.].It was a good thing too, because later when I went to look for my clean shirt and tie, I needed the map to determine their location.Unfortunately, by the time we unpacked and drew the map, it was time for lunch.We traipsed downstairs and met the crowd.

At 12:00 we meet in the lobby and walk a few blocks toward a restaurant that Angel has chosen.A block from the famed Bristol Hotel we come across what appears to be a geological dig directly on the Avenue of July 9th.The hole is large and deep.Gary and Bob Y. directly launch into a heated discussion and lecture pointing out some of the features of the dig.Bob points out how the left lateral fault has resulted in a protectoral fault formation whose mineralization zone has been exacerbated by the compression delineation.But wait, Gary points out how the subduction zone seen under the carboniferous zone has been poorly delineated in the direction of shear bolstering his contention that Wilson’s Conjecture on Chelated Minerals would totally account for the slight (1.2 deci-Gauss) change in the magnetic field strength.Bob retorts that Wilson noted in his 1998 lecture at Ohio State that his conjecture only applied to tectonic plates whose preferred orientation was not in contradistinction to the fault delineations of the contrariety plate.Just as Gary was about to retort, Beverly pointed out that the putative geological dig was in fact an Argentine size pot hole.Oh well, on to the restaurant.

We get to the restaurant; a large local place with may tables and several locals.Bob Osinski is called away by some officials.It seems the Minister of Finance is having some problems, and has been checking immigration files and has discovered Bob has entered the country.Bob is whisked away in a small flurry and spends the remainder of the day in an advisory capacity helping to straighten out some of Argentina’s difficulties (financial, transportation, romantic, and gaudien).As is clear from subsequent events, his advice on all these matters had fallen on deaf ears.The mood at the restaurant is somber for a few minutes, but our spirits are indomitable, and we carry on with the festivities.

The waiters bring us an opening empanada with some heated cheese.The empanada is stuffed with a mixture of Moroccan crab, Latvian abalone, and Italian truffle, which has some nice flavors, but the pastry is a little less flaky than we would like.Next a delightful cheese course and some sorbet to cleanse the palate.Next a local favorite, rolled beef, with an apricot puree drizzled over it and a lovely salad of wilted baby greens and arugula.The wine was served with each course, both red and white.The reds were mainly from Chateau Romorol, with the years in line with the course – the lighter 72’s with the cheese and the more hardy ’78 with the meat.The whites were a little pretentious, mostly Chateau Pissedechat from the Loire valley.The final course was your choice of either a piece of chicken or a full size steak.Too much food!

Based on a command decision from the Committee of Four (Jack & Jessie & Barney & Lee & Carol, who have been voted as the Oversight Committee that makes all the important group decisions – this was based on a complex mathematical algorithm developed by John to allow the greatest summand of intelligence in the fewest number of people) there is agreement that at each meal each of us would leave 1$ as a tip.As a corollary they have decided that wine would be settled on a meal-by-meal basis.However, we still have to deal with desert, either a fruit compote or a glace de chocolate.Quite droll.

As we are working our way among the tables to exit the restaurant, but before we can leave, a large black car has driven up and 3 large toughs in tight fitting black suits walk directly up to Monte and inform him he is needed at the Ministry of Information.He first asks why he was chosen from among all of us.The chilling look from the thugs leaves no doubt in anyone’s mind what they are thinking.Another question from Monte concerning his non-involvement policy results in a minor scuffle.As he is being brought to the car, Monte enigmatically calls out to us “It’s all propaganda, anyway you slice it.”We worry for some moments about Monte’s safety until Mary Emma points out the Bob O (remember him) will not be too far away.We have one more round of wine for its calming effects and find ourselves with a free afternoon in Buenos Aires.

Danielle and George decide to organize a union for the street beggars based on the Fagan Model.They begin just outside the restaurant and within 30 minutes have set-up a full organization with a president, vice-president, CEO, etc.Danielle is the CFO and calculates that, based on a mere 5% rake on the take (ROT), she and George will be able to easily finance the Patagonian trip – including the wine surcharges.With great flourish they spend the afternoon recruiting new members to their organization – The Union of Concerned Buenos Airean Mendicants, (which in Spanish forms the acronym - BANDITS).

We decide to do some work on Ruth’s book, so while the others are spending their time in various pursuits Ruth and Mark rent a moped.A nice, yellow, moped with saddlebags and a horn.Ruth’s book, to be published by a major publisher in the spring, is a photographic compendium of monuments – the tile is “Statues Whose Names Begin with T in the Capitol Cities of South America.”The title is simple and descriptive.With a great deal of persistence, she gets photographs of all 114 statues/monuments that fit the description.After the last one on our list (Theresa and Abelard), we sit under a tree in a park and decide to work our way back to the hotel.It is hot - about 32 C (90 F) and humid.We stop for am agua grande, then back to the hotel for a nap.We have no trouble finding the hotel, but do have some problems navigating around the room because we misplaced the map.We finally find the bed and get a few hours shut-eye.

We get up and shower and meet in the lobby at 8 P.M. for a trip to a Tango Club for dinner.The streets are awash with people in some sort of peaceful demonstration.The head manager informs us that we should not be alarmed, it is merely “the young people, celebrating the victory of one of the soccer clubs in the all-Argentine soccer tournament” – he opines that it is like the baseball world series or the US football Superbowl championship.Lots of flag waving and fireworks and singing and shouting.It is an orderly mob.They have gathered at the Obelisk, which is the center of town (like Times Square).All good fun.However, there was some apprehension among the people in the lobby because of the rioting that had happened the previous week and the rhythmic chanting.Monte, who has returned from The Ministry, unharmed but wiser, has a different interpretation.He confers with Grace, Mary, and Dale who have been surreptitiously blending with the crowd to discover their true mood – and their worst suspicions are confirmed.In addition to the Authorities knowing about Bob and Monte, the local power brokers have realized that Jim has again come into the country – now just in their time of need.The brokers have stirred up the local populace into a near frenzy to replace the current El Presidente with the Norte Americano, el Señor Doctor Jim!We listened more carefully and realized the chanting was “Queremos el Señor Doctor Jim - Queremos el Señor Doctor Jim - Queremos el Señor Doctor Jim.”Well, we knew we’d never get to the Tango Club with the crowed out there – as Robin would say “Holy Tippi Hedren, Batman!”Again, the quick thinking of out Oversight Committee and multifaceted talents of the group were put to good use.Using the tailoring talents of Joan B and the makeup artistry of the two Ericas they had Jim (aka el Señor Doctor Jim) in a disguise so clever that not even his own dog would sniff him out.Within a mere 15 minutes Jim was the prototypical Bedouin princess.He looked so natural and graceful that he would never garner a second glance from the crowd.So with great joy in our hearts we broke into 2 quick choruses of “If You Could See Him Now” and sallied forth to the waiting bus which whisked us through the chanting throngs (unaware that their sought-after hero was among them even as they called for his appearance).A short ride to the Club.

Text Box:The club is a recreation (new) of an old club (Ciendo Cuarto?) that had existed and was home to a famous Tango singer Carlos Gardel.The menu was varied and fixed price.The food is good and the wine ok (not nearly as good as lunch).Very attentive staff that made sure there was enough bottled water and wine available.During the meal they showed a video of the history of Tango and a plug for the club.The video was very well done with historical photos, film clips, and audio.Angel gave each of us a piece of pottery from his home province as a gift - very thoughtful.Some people received water jugs, some plates, some masks.

Then the show began.A live band (piano, 2 violins, 2 bandonians, and a bass).They played well and loudly - amplified.Then the dancers - 4 pair - and the singers.There were 2 male and 1 female singers who only did solo parts.One of the males sort of impersonated Carlos Gardel in dress and singing style.He was very good.The female singer must have been the owner or the owner’s wife or relative - or maybe the band was angry at her and would not play in time with her singing.The dancing was spirited with many difficult maneuvers.But it was not very graceful - only technically demanding.Partway through one of the ensemble pieces Sally leapt on the stage and began to point out to one of the dance pairs how their passango de returnomedia gambas was not in the traditional style.She called her partner Greg to the stage and they gave a 4-minute demonstration of the proper technique.The dancers were politely attentive, the women in the red bouclé outfit pulled out a notebook (goodness knows where she was able to secret it while wearing that dress) and made a few notes as Sally and Greg demonstrated the proper tango technique.In the meantime, Peter was photographing the events, both the demonstration and the regular show.Emboldened by Sally and Greg, Peter climbed to the bandstand and took a series of photos from there.Some of the best shots he got were while standing behind the lead (as in principal, not the element) violin player.We all were amazed at his unsuspected grace in the way he landed on the dance floor after the violin player, who seemed to have tired of his clicking, flung him over her meaty shoulder and over the railing – her movements were quick and accurate, and she missed only 3 notes.

When they all got back at the table there was some berating between Sally and Greg concerning the use of tactile tango instruction as opposed to tactful tango instruction.Of course, Bob O. rose to the occasion and stepped in, as the great conciliator, and brought things back to normal.On With the Show!

There was one male dancer who was a bit older (60 to 70) with a young partner - they seem to have danced a lot together.Compared to the other dancers (excepting Sally & Greg) he was more reserved/less flashy and enjoyable to watch.

The show was over about midnight and as we were about to pile back into the busses we realized that Jim, who had shed his disguise, would surely be recognized by the demonstrating crowds that were now all over Buenos Aires.Again, Joan and the Ericas came to the fore and in short order, using Cristy’s grosgrain peasant dress ensemble, whipped up an Andalusian sheep farmer costume for Jim.We all awed with amazement in the transformation, and in one of the very few choral conflicts that we were to see on the remainder of the trip, about half of us broke into a hearty chorus of “Lady of Spain” while the remainder had spontaneously chosen the “We Like Sheep” aria from The Messiah (Schirmer Music, 1938 edition).Either way, when we finished the songs we entered the buses for an uneventful journey back to the hotel with our own sheep herder (ha-ha).The bus driver gets a little confused by the crowds and the dark and makes a wrong turn.We wander about for a few blocks until Chris notices the problem and using his unerring directional sense gets us back on “the right track.”We are all grateful, but are too tired to burst into song.

The celebration that was going on around the Obelisk had grown quite large and boisterous.It looked like everyone was having a good time - some drunk kids lying in the street, but mainly a lot of shouting, flag waving, chanting for their presidential choice, and fire works.All very well handled.Back in the lobby of the Bristol we all kissed and hugged and, in what was to become our nightly ritual at the hotels, all joined in for two lusty choruses of the “Goodnight Irene” duet from Donizetti’s Maria Stuarda.There was some question as to why there were so many sheep around.

We returned to our room, and thanks to Ruth’s idea of placing breadcrumbs, in the Hansel & Gretel manner, we had no trouble finding our bed in the vast stretches of the hotel room.She donned her 'kerchief, and I my cap, and we settled back for a well deserved sleep.We slowly drifted off to the crowd’s chants of “Queremos el Señor Doctor Jim - Queremos el Señor Doctor Jim - …”

FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 2001:Buenos Aires to Rio Gallegos

Scribe:Danielle Sharp

It was an effort to get up and ready for breakfast at 6:00 A.M.We're not quite used to the strong Argentine coffee, but if memory serves me well, it won't take long.In fact, I'm sure we will be begging for it before too much longer.We certainly need its jump-start in the mornings with our long days and late nights.

We were taken to the airport for the four-hour flight to Rio Gallegos, the capital of Santa Cruz province founded in 1885.It has a large military base, and after 1945, the city grew rapidly due to the transport from its port of coal and trade in wool and meat. 

As we were landing, we noticed that all of the roofs were metal and in a variety of colors.Some of the houses looked like props for a Monopoly game.George informed us he had read that Rio Gallegos was the windiest city in the world.So far it wasn't that bad, and the temperature was much more pleasant than it had been in Buenos Aires.

Our bus swept us away to the Hotel de Santa Cruz.We were surprised to find such small accommodations with no room to spread out our things, especially since we would be spending two nights here.In fact, the bathroom door hit the sink, so wouldn't open fully.We didn't particularly like hearing that Greg and Sally more than likely were given the Presidential Suite.Sally said, "Oh, we've got plenty of room!"We may just have to toilet paper their room at some point.

After lunch of thinly breaded veal and potato salad, our intended destination was an estancia and then to the coast to view an old ship wreck.However, we got somewhat lost and never found the road to the ocean.We did see a small lake with numerous flamingos whose spread wings showed bright pink plumage.We also saw rheas, foxes, and hares, not to mention hundreds of sheep.About the rheas, Ross asked,"How do we know if they're heas or sheas?"

We passed by an estancia that was in the process of sheering sheep. There were numerous dismayed-looking sheep in the pens on other side of the road who had just lost their wool, and it looked like there were more than two bags full.In fact, there were about 100 clear plastic bags of freshly sheered wool stacked against the outbuilding.

On the return trip we were complaining about the curtains getting in the way of our views.Well, George came up with a great solution by using his paper luggage tag from his backpack and securing the curtains on our window with it.Joan B. was so impressed she started a campaign for all of us to gather similar items and secure all of the curtains. 

Once we got the curtain situation taken care of, we were able to enjoy more animal sightings.Some of us drifted off for short naps, and soon realized why we were so tired.It was 9:00 P.M. and still light outside.The sun finally set a little after 10: P.M. and what a gorgeous sunset!

Just as we were nearing Rio Gallegos, we noticed huge clouds of black smoke billowing into the sky.Protestors had set tires on fire.Were we going to get into the midst of it after all?

It was about 10:30 P.M. by the time we reached our hotel.We made a quick trip to our rooms, then walked to The British Club for dinner.However, we found out that our reservations were for the following night.Jim made a quick decision to have pizza at the nearby restaurant called Super Quick. At first I thought it was a grocery store because of the name, but once inside we noticed other customers enjoying food.Our pizza and drinks were good and just right after a long day on the bus.Everyone was thankful that we didn't have to meet for breakfast until 8:00 A.M. the next day.It was almost 1:00 A.M. by the time we got to bed. 

SATURDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2001:Excursion to Cabo Virgenes

Morning Scribe:Cristy Brenner

After breakfast at Hotel Santa Cruz, we left Rio Gallegos and headed south on Highway One towards the penguin rookery at Cabo Virgenes.As we drove across the rolling hills of the Patagonian steppe, we saw numerous guanacos and rheas.For those who didn’t see my book on Patagonia, here are a few interesting facts about rheas:The male makes the nest and several different females may lay from two to four eggs.Some nests my have as many as forty eggs that the male incubates for forty days!The diet of rheas consists of grasses, seeds, fruit and insects.

I don’t have any “funnies” to report from our drive because I didn’t know that I was going to be scribe.We hadn’t signed up for our scribe duties yet, and I volunteered after the penguin tour. Since traveling to Antarctica last year, I am an admitted penguin addict and I had taken lots of notes, while most people were happily enjoying the wonderful experience of thousands of cute penguins and the beautiful weather.Here is a brief summary of my notes on the penguins:

·There are 500 thousand Magellanic penguins in this rookery.

·There are 16 species of penguins (one of my books states 18).

·These penguins are at the rookery from September until March.

·Males arrive first and spend two weeks renovating their nests from the previous year.

·The Cabo Virgenes penguins come from southern Brazil, and this is the only place where they come onto the land.

·They spend 80 percent of their time at sea.

·They mate for life and return to the same nest each year.

·Two eggs are laid that are incubated by both parents for 42 days.

·They grow until the end of February, when it takes three weeks for them to molt from their down feathers to waterproof feathers.

·Once the young go in the water, they are independent and migrate by themselves to Brazil.

·After the young leave, the adults feed on squid and sardines and then return to land for their three-week molt.

·The adults then leave and swim to Brazil to feed in the Brazil Current.

·Penguin predators include seagulls (eat eggs), and skuas and foxes (eat chicks).

·At sea, sharks, orca and sea lions eat the babies on their way to Brazil.

·The average Magellanic penguin life span is 14-16 years.

·They find a mate and nesting site at age four, lay one egg (usually infertile) at age five, and lay two fertile eggs at age 6.

·These penguins swim at 20 km/hr, dive down to 150 meters and can stay down for four minutes.

·Five thousand tourists visit the Cabo Virgenes Preserve each year.

Our penguin rookery hike was wonderful.The penguins were a bit more skittish than the ones in Antarctica, probably because people used to hunt them.My only regret was that the trail was a loop and I had planned to take most of my penguin photos on the way back to the bus.When we arrived back at the bus, lunch was ready, and it was time to head off to a new adventure and a new scribe.

Afternoon Scribe:Carol Shropshire

Following the visit to the penguin rookery, we had a lunch on the bus consisting of a large piece of chicken and one and one-half cups of cooked, unsalted potatoes and carrots which were dished up by Angel and Raúl.Waitress, Erica Palson, did the serving.

Customer, Monte, however was displeased that the women were being served first and an exchange of bantering ensued.Monty was heard to say after he got his meal, "This is the worst guanaco I have ever tasted!"

It was "potty time," and several women requested that the men relieve themselves outside the rear of the ranger station.That reduced the amount of time standing in line since the women could then use both bathrooms.Bev entertained the waiting lines by relating one of her wonderful stories.This time it was about restrooms of various countries she and Gary had visited.

At 4:14 P.M., we illegally entered Chile (no border guards).At this stop we were at the southern most tip of Argentina's mainland.

The group immediately spread out on the beach.The Erica's laid down on the sand for sunbathing (No one in North Dakota even takes off their gloves in December much less sunbathes!).Someone else was prone on the sand taking photos.Others ran down to the water to put their hands in the waters of the Straits of Magellan.

Back on the bus, it was decided that Monte and Raúl should walk back behind the bus since they had spent their time throwing fish skeletons at each other.Then a discussion began as to whether we had really been in Chile.The outcome was "think South American Style," and 50 feet really didn't matter.Just say it was Chile!

Watching out the bus windows, we have seen sheep, cows, condors, and guanacos.Danielle spotted a rhea with six or eight babies, and she was pretty sure she also saw a Patagonian hare.

There was a photo stop where 12-15 guanacos were grazing near the road. The bus driver, Enrique, would stop whenever requested.Everyone was re-energized after being off of the bus.

We made another ten minute roadside-stop while Angel went inside a small building.He emerged with two thermoses of hot water.He then proceeded to serve matte to everyone.The first time it was sweet, but the second time it was not, so it was extremely bitter.Discussions on the bus included topics of music and eating areas while drinking red wine.What is in matte anyway?

Since we were to return by mid afternoon, and it was 8:15 P.M., a few wondered when mid afternoon arrived in South America.Only waiting will reveal this answer.We still had another stop to go.

Our last stop was a visit to a shipwreck that occurred in 1912.A boiler on a coal tender exploded and then a severe storm beached the vessel a quarter of a mile inland.It was low-tide when we were there and the beach consisted of gravel.A sea lion was swimming near by.The shipwreck is now "lover's lane" for the locals of Rio Gallegos.Its hull is decorated heavily with graffiti.

The wind was blowing strongly and a group of geologists were huddled together.George said it looked like the survivor's group deciding who would be voted off this trip first.However, our group was beginning to "come together."A core group of people knew each other.Nametags were starting to disappear and the rest of us were working hard at remembering names.

Mid afternoon arrived;9:15 P.M.!We went to the British Club for a lamb curry dinner.Some participants were disappointed when they got a lot of bones and fat.However, the conversations were pleasing.Bev and Gary said the television reported more rioting in the area where we had stayed in Buenos Aires.

A few decided to stop at a cyber cafe to let folks at home know we were fine, despite what Argentine political and economical news was being reported.The dark upstairs area at the cafe was lined with computers.Each station had a group of teenagers playing games.Since the keyboard was a little different from American keyboards, we felt we too were playing games, but eventually, we figured it out.The cost was very inexpensive.We paid less than $1 for sending our e-mail messages.

SUNDAY, DECEMBER 30, 200:Rio Gallegos to El Calafate

Morning Scribe:Danielle Sharp

I got no sleep last night due to the taxi stand directly across the street.They told a lot of jokes, but my Spanish wasn't good enough to understand, and I was very tired.That wonderful Argentine coffee is a godsend!We had a pretty substantial breakfast, which made up for last night's dinner.Yuk!

During breakfast we sat with both Joans, Mel, and Dale and Grace, and it was decided that we needed to break up some of the seating groups.We had observed that several people tend to sit in the same spots everyday, and we don't have a chance to talk to them.So, after bringing our suitcases to the bus for our three-hour journey to El Calafate, George and I moved to the third row from the front of the bus, and the others from our table spread themselves around, as well.We sat across from the two Ericas and enjoyed talking to them very much.I am, after all, their "mother."

We arrived in El Calafate at about 2:00.Everyone seemed pleased with our living quarters, Apartment Hotel Libertador, for they were extremely charming.They reminded me of the alps with the colorful window boxes filled with large, beautiful petunias, lobelia, etc.…and the roses in town were absolutely gorgeous.Our apartment was a large, comfortable two-story apartment with three beds--perfect for laying out our clothes.Several of us leaned ours heads out of the windows, and someone asked to borrow a cup of sugar.

George quickly found a store that was open, and Mary came running up to me, holding George's camera, and said that George needed me to translate.He finally purchased a nice-looking burgundy coat, thus ending the "coat" saga.The good thing about George loosing his coat and buying a new one was that I should easily be able to purchase for myself a cute shirt that I had admired in the window next door.Unfortunately, that store wasn't open.Oh, well!It was finally time to get on the bus and drive to the Perito Moreno Glacier.I had never seen a glacier in person before, so I could hardly contain myself.

Afternoon Scribe:Chris Metzler

We ate lunch (warm milanesa sandwiches, yum!) on the bus, while chatting with our guide, Soledad Lopez Belson.We then drove 80 kilometers to Perito Moreno Glacier, along Lago Argentino.Along the drive, Soledad provided a running commentary.Among the many items we learned were the following:

- Perito Moreno was a surveyor who first established the border between Chile and Argentina.Perito is a title, meaning "expert" or "skilled"in

Spanish.His actual name was Francisco Moreno.

- Perito Moreno noticed that the blue lake and white snow, glaciers and

icebergs resembled the colors of the Argentine flag, and thus gave the lake its name.

- The lake has an area of 1560 sq. km, an average depth of 300 meters and greatest depth of 1000 meters.It drains into the Atlantic Ocean via the Santa Cruz River.

- The town of El Calafate is named after a shrub, which produces berries.

Local legend says that those who eat the calafate berry will return to

Patagonia.

- The town was founded in 1927 and has a population of 7000.Tourism is the major industry.

- Estancias in the area raise sheep.The area has unusually good conditions for sheep, and they can be supported by only 2 hectares/head.In most of the province it takes 7 hectare/head to support sheep.

- The area gets 7-10 meters of snow per year.Soledad mentioned that we would likely see a number of plants, and passed around a photo album.Among the common plants of the area is one called Mata Guanaco, which means "Dead Guanaco" or "Kills Guanaco".She mentioned a number of other plants, including one called Zapata de la Virgen.Unfortunately, this scribe was so traumatized by having been locked in the bathroom at the hotel that he was unable to record the other plants she mentioned.

-Animals in the area include puma, red fox and guanacos.

-Common birds include the Condor, Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, Crested

Caracara, Black Neck Swan, Chilean Flamingo, Cuaquen Comun (Upland Goose, which normally occurs in pairs), Buff-necked Ibis, and Garza Bruja (which literally translates as "witch heron" but in the U.S. is usually called the Black-crowned Night Heron).Soledad mentioned a number of other birds, but the scribe was still traumatized from having gotten locked in the bathroom.

-Perito Moreno Glacier is the only glacier within Los Glaciares National

Park which is accessible by land.

At an overlook, we got off the bus.Soledad explained that in both 1940 and 1988 the glacier surged across the lake, creating an ice dam, which caused the upstream side of the lake to rise 25-30 meters.The bathtub ring of dead vegetation left by the rise was quite apparent.At present the glacier touches the peninsula, but water flows through and under the ice dam, so the lake level isn't significantly affected.Jim mentioned that at one time the glacier was surging forward at 10m/day! When the ice dam broke apart, it created a jokulhlaup.

After a short drive, many of us got on a boat, the Yagan (which is a word from the native people of that region).This boat ride allowed us to get up-close and personal with the glacier.(Erika Palson mentioned that she was, up until then, a "glacial virgin", having never before been intimate with one before.)We saw a very nice iceberg calving event that created waves which rocked the boat.The ice front is 50-70 meters above the lake, and is 6 km wide.

After the boat ride, we drove to the Moreno Glacier overlook.This allowed us to hike along several trails to a series of viewing platforms.The views were fantastic, and lots of photography was going on.Though we were a little pressed for time, many of us enjoyed the chance to hike up and down, enjoying both the views and the exercise.

We were back on the bus at 7:45 for the drowsy ride back to El Calafate and dinner at the Chinese place.All in all, it was a fun-filled, educational and beautiful afternoon.

MONDAY, DECEMBER 31, 2001: Boat ride on Lago Argentina and visit to Estancia Cristina

Morning Scribe: MARY E. Dowse

Today started with another too-early wakeup call (6 AM) and too-light breakfast (coffee, croissants).We loaded onto the bus for a 7:00 A.M. departure to drive to the dock.There were geologic features to be observed on the road to the dock (if your eyes were open).The road traversed a flat glacial lakebed and then crossed a hummocky moraine.There was evidence of landslides in the hillsides on the left side of the bus. 

We arrived at the dock and boarded the Upsala Explorer for our trip up the Lago Argentino to see Upsala Glacier.The speedy catamaran had plush soft seats and was well loaded.Breakfast was served as we cruised up the Lago.Danielle used the opportunity to collect the excess coffee creamer with plans to later open Danielle’s Faux Dairy.We remained in the cabin for much of the start of the cruise, but boiled out onto deck when given permission.There was a wide variety of whimsically-shaped ice bergs floating down the lake from the glacier.We were alerted to be on the lookout for “the Lilliputian ice follies coming to an iceberg near you,” although it is not clear if anyone actually observed the follies.We did note glacially scoured bed rock and roches moutonées.

The Upsala Explorer worked its way through and around ice bergs to provide the opportunity to view the front of the Upsala Glacier. It was much warmer as we approached the glacier front.Geologically it was possible to see some of the history of glaciation by looking at the moraines and other deposits in the valley.A small valley on the west side of Upsala held a smaller glacier and had been at one time dammed by the glacier in the main valley resulting in a series of flat lakebeds in the valley.At least two levels of lateral moraines were evident along the walls of the valley.

A carefully conducted survey of geo-trippers indicated that most were impressed.Some quotes…

‘Not too bad.’

‘Yes!!!!!’ (said with a Jersey accent)

‘um’ (at a loss for words)

‘I love what I am seeing’

‘Awesome, but when are we going to see something beautiful?’

‘Awwesum!’

Unimogs at Estancia Cristina
‘We ain’t got nothing like this in Sandpoint’

‘Jim, really knows how to pick them’

The boat then headed for the Estancia Cristina and we loaded into 2 Mercedes ‘busses’ (Unimogs), truck-like rigs with seating for about 20.Couldn’t we all use these for field trips?We followed a track that wound up and around to an overlook of the Upsala Glacier and ice field escorted by our guides Anahi and Amaren.The bedrock geology, thinly-bedded turbidites dipping steeply to the east, controlled the topography as we followed strike valleys and then up and over ridges that paralleled strike.Many of the valleys contained lakes and or had flat bottoms indicating former lakebeds.

At the end of the track we parked and then hiked on up to the outlook.The rocks were primarily dark shales and some interbedded sands.They contained abundant belemnites and awesome ammonites (which appeared to be most abundant in the darker layers).The rain at the outcrop deterred few geologists (or as Greg noted, "This is a geology trip now – got some weather.").The guide admitted that she had never had as much trouble getting a group to return from the outlook and reload in the vans (Were we busy looking at rocks?).

We then returned to the Estancia Cristina for lunch ( by my vote the best lunch on the trip).

THE MENU:

Salads: Cole slaw with paprika, carrot, lettuce, and tomato with a dab of dulce leche, and chicken

Empanadasfilled with cheese and corn

Breads: little rounds, white and wheat sliced bread, bread sticks

Main course: Lamb and Chicken from the Asado with chutney, salta criolla, and chimichurri (recipe follows)

Desserts: tarts, chocolate mousse, and so many choices.

Wine flowed (poured much liked ice tea in the states)

There were important discussions over lunch.Inquiring minds are looking for the answers to important questions. Why napkin rings?Etiquette lessons were provided. Is it true that Barney’s cane is really a Jacob’s staff or is he using it to dowse for oil?Of course we now know that it is really a terrorist weapon. Do men wear cups when they are learning to tango?Still looking for input on this question.

Chimichurri Ingredientes:

2 tomates

2 cebollas

perejil c/n

1 cabeza de ajo

1 morron

100 gr de aji molido

100 gr de oregano

sal c/n

pimineta crispada (rota)

vinagre de alcohol 900 cc

aceite de oliva 300 cc

Procedimiento

Picar todo los elementos bien chiquitos.

Poner en un bol y agegar los liquidos Y reservar en la heladera

Afternoon Scribes:Erica Paulson and Erica Peterson

Our New Year's celebration started in the afternoon at the Upsala restaurant.The meal consisted of salad, bread, lamb, and tons of desserts (ok, maybe only 7 dessert choices, but they were fantastic!).Our table consisted of Joan Baldwin, Pete, Don, Bob Yates, and of course the now infamous E2 gals. At a moment of serenity, our table (the ‘cool table’) toasted Dottie with champagne.

"This is the earliest I've ever started New Year's celebration."- Don

"Anything is fair game." – Pete

The day was overcast with occasional light rain, which seemed like perfect napping weather.Apparently, there were lots of jokes during the tour…something about Bob Yates being so concerned about losing his camera that he lost his hat.A big thanks goes to Pete for finding it!The flowers looked nice to Bob O. who wanted to take a picture.Every geologist knows you need something for scale so Joan Alger provided the "British finger".

The late afternoon alcohol may have had something to do with the abundance of jokes, although E2 were oblivious to them due to uncontrollable, momentary unconsciousness.The benches in the restaurant were actually quite comfortable.Everything looked nice through our eyelids.

Thank you for waking us up!It would have been a long swim back to El Calafate!Us ‘youngin’s’ needed a siesta to keep up with you party animals!Maybe we’re just not used to being able to afford alcohol with EVERY MEAL! *

* (We arrived back in the USA in true fighting form.Haven’t met a bottle of wine that can beat us yet!)

On the boat ride more people seemed to be suffering from uncontrollable unconsciousness.We had about 1 ½ hours back at the hotel before leaving for the restaurant at 10:00 p.m.It was decorated quite nicely, with pink, green, and white iridescent balloons and Christmas decorations.Angel brought red wine.The place settings contained goofy little glasses.The server looked at us like we were weird when we asked if they were for water or wine…still don't know.The server passed out numbers (which turned out to be quite beneficial to Don).The buffet style salads and appetizers looked great with the watermelon carved like a pumpkin. We weren't sure if we could indulge until Don exclaimed, "Do not pass go, do not collect $200, but do go to the salad bar."The steaks were fantastic, although Chris complained "There's no tofu on the trip" (insert sarcasm).The meal was great, as well as the wine and champagne.